[jbluetooth]

What is everyone using for home and limit switches? Is there a good value out there that everyone reccomends?
thanks
Jesse

[dertsap]

ive got this board for switch connections http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-Limit-Switch...ayphotohosting
and ive used switches similar to these http://cgi.ebay.com/6-CNC-LIMIT-SWIT...ayphotohosting with surprisingly great results
i quickly came to realize why the pro machines have a ramp the switch rides up after i blasted some other switches right off the machine in pieces , at 1000 ipm it turns out they needed a bit of lead

[glentner]

I'm not sure what kind of machine you're running, but for something simple I use the normally closed push button switches that radio shack sells (red and/or black push buttons). They have worked great for limit switches and cost about $2 for a four-pack.

-gl

[jbluetooth]

really? radioshack switches? They've been consistent enough for you to use as a home switch? I'm building a small engraving machine (roughly 12x16 working area). Just working out the bugs on the first design with wood, then going to transfer what I learn to an all polished acrylic machine so I am trying to use quality and accurate components that can be utilized.

[glentner]

They are "installed" as limit switches. In Mach 3 I use one direction of my limits as my home switches. Being that they are normally closed, they are fairly repeatable. For the price and easy of making a bracket for them they are worth it for my machine. If you were using normally open switches I wouldn't use the r/s push buttons. Otherwise you may want to try them if you are looking for a budget limit switch. Off the top of my head, if I put an indicator on one to test the repeatability, i would guess it to be w/in .005" (on the normally closed type).

-gl

[mc-motorsports]

ive got this board for switch connections http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-Limit-Switch...ayphotohosting
and ive used switches similar to these http://cgi.ebay.com/6-CNC-LIMIT-SWIT...ayphotohosting with surprisingly great results
i quickly came to realize why the pro machines have a ramp the switch rides up after i blasted some other switches right off the machine in pieces , at 1000 ipm it turns out they needed a bit of lead

Those work very good!

mirco-switches are the way to go. They are cheap, repeatable, accurate, and you can't beat the price.

Like any accurate home switch, you need to make sure they stay clear of chips, coolant, swarf, all that good stuff.

Wire them NC and you won't have any problems. Good luck!
MC

[dertsap]

Those work very good!

mirco-switches are the way to go. They are cheap, repeatable, accurate, and you can't beat the price.

MC

i was surprised at how well they work , i had some really nice switches but as i pointed out they are absolutely destroyed , so the micro switches were a cheap alternative which turned out to be a good one , they are dead nuts accurate

[mc-motorsports]

i was surprised at how well they work , i had some really nice switches but as i pointed out they are absolutely destroyed , so the micro switches were a cheap alternative which turned out to be a good one , they are dead nuts accurate

I totally agree. I never would have tried them, honestly. One look and you think they are just cheap crap. I used the Elrod Z Axis Retrofit on a BP mill and it came with them(micro switches), no good way to mount another home/limit switch within the current design, so I figured I was stuck with them... Turns out I'm very happy! They have been reliable and very accurate as a home switch and they do the job as a limit switch.

As for my X and Y axis, I spent way too much money on crap plunger type switches from a well known name that aren't accurate within even .005". They are only used at limit switches, I don't even use home swiches on the X and Y, I just re-zero if anything happens.