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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Smithy > Smithy Granite 220V brushless motor upgrade wiring
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4

    Smithy Granite 220V brushless motor upgrade wiring

    I have a Smithy Granite 1324. I recently ordered their 220V brushless motor upgrade but I'm not sure how to wire power to the unit. I have a standard four prong, 50A 220V outlet in my garage (L1, L2, N, PE). The wiring diagram for the switch that came with the motor shows that it wants L, N and PE. Is it possible that this system expects a single line with 220V on it?

    I have attached scans of the manual that came with the motor. Page 6 shows the wiring diagram in question. The switch came wired a bit differently than the diagram shows and I have added a drawing at the bottom of how it's really hooked up. It looks like it's doing the same thing to me but I'm not an electrician. I've tried searching for more information on the motor and controller but the only reference I can find anywhere is the wiring diagram that is hosted on Smithy's website.

    A friend of mine who is an electrician told me to contact Smithy and ask them how to hook it up but after two emails and about two weeks I still haven't heard from them. He mentioned that in the past he has had to set up transformers for customers who needed a single 220V line. Does this seem like it would be a possible solution?
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24220
    Most of the rest of the world uses 240v, hot and neutral, in N.A. you have 240v both hot, the neutral is the centre tap at 120v.
    If you require the 240v hook up, just use the two 240v hot lines and ground (PE), ignore the neutral label and connect one side of your 240v to it.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4
    I hooked it up as you suggested but after turning it on the motor doesn't start to turn until I get to about 1/5 of a turn on the potentiometer and at that point it's barely moving. When I turn it up all the way it doesn't seem like it goes as fast as it should. Any ideas?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24220
    Not much in the manual to go on, you could measure the voltage across the outer ends of the pot, you should typically have +10vdc.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4
    The original pot had a bad connector that would open when the wires going to it were bent. When this would happen the motor would go full speed. I replaced it with one from Radio Shack (linear, 10k like the original) but the behavior is the same.

    The voltage across the pot was 5V. Just to make sure all my other wiring was OK I checked the voltage across the power lines on both sides of the relay and they both read 250V with the switch on.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24220
    You either have to get more information and better details of the controller, and also find out the max analogue input as to whether if is 5v or not?
    You also have to make sure you have a linear taper pot, a logarithmic pot will give you weird control.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4
    I got this figured out. I talked to someone at Smithy and it turns out that the zero point on the speed placard does not correspond to the stop on the pot. I borrowed a tach from the shop at work and adjusted the position of the knob on the pot so the placard would be accurate.

    Thanks for helping me out Al!

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