You know, the Harbor Freight one, with da coupon...
Picked it up. Grunted. Oof.
So, I've got it out of the box, stand assembled, and I'm wondering if there is an easy way for one guy to get the heavy part onto the stand? Any hints?
You know, the Harbor Freight one, with da coupon...
Picked it up. Grunted. Oof.
So, I've got it out of the box, stand assembled, and I'm wondering if there is an easy way for one guy to get the heavy part onto the stand? Any hints?
Good reason to buy an engine hoist/crane if you don't already have one.
a couple of friends will do the trick. also get a couple good blades for it. The blade that comes on it will break very soon. Mine broke the first cut. Put a new blade on it and now its GREAT!!!!! I love my little saw!!!
I can borrow a crane if I drive 360 miles... Sigh... $190 bandsaw, $200 crane/hoist... maybe I'll try a come-along on a rafter...
It's not that heavy! Assemble it laying on its side, then simply tip it up. One person can EASILY do it.
Regards,
Ray L.
Hi, my name is Chuck, and I'm a compleat idjit. Thank you very much.
Doh. Someone needs to whack me with an obvious stick.
I do recommend getting a comealong the next time you are there. I use one all the time from the rafters in my garage.
Okayfine - it's together, I have a BUNCH of parts left over, and it sorta cuts. The blade REALLY sucks. On a scale of 1-10, it's at about 328 on the suck scale. I picked up an extra "can cut stainless" blade while at HF, but what do you guys recommend?
Get a could of the bi-metal variable-pitch blades Grizzly sells. They work better than anything else I've found (including much more expensive name-brand bi-metals), and they're cheap.
Regards,
Ray L.
Thanks - going to be doing a Springfield run in a little bit. Any of you guys use coolant? I'm probably going to sit the thing in a tub with a HF fountain pump. What are you liking for a water-soluble? I know what the guy I've been doing stuff with uses, but he's probably using it only because he used it 25 years ago...
i got a couple of the bi-metal blades that HF sells when I got mine. still on the first one. As far as coolant goes. Material specific for the most part, Me I use a couple squirts of Wd-40 thru out the cut
as for spare parts, yeah I have a couple things I didnt put on as well. Belt cover? Nah, dont need that......... handle? What a joke, a nice metal bolt on handle works better for me. and you should have a wide L bracket left over as well. That is now bolted to the wall at eye level behind my 11x26 lathe and holds my magnetic DRO`s
Stop being such a girl and lift it
Wax stick lubricants work pretty well too. There are several different kinds available or you can use simply use a beeswax candle. Apparently the wax from the wax rings used for sealing toilets does a good job too.
bob
Rowbare, you cant simply say something like that..........
I can see it already........
"Honey, why is the toilet laying on its side?" "Sorry honey, was cutting some aluminum bar"
I use the irwin 10/14 blade from enco
Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies
can't beat the price and you can usley find a free shipping code on the net
Also there is a Yahoo group for the saw alot of info on tweaking and mods for the saw. You will ve to join but is is free and well worth it
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6ban...guid=444321927
Oh and when does the CNC conversion start. :-) there is a guy n yahoo that built a auto feeder for his.
The highest problem with a lot of these is that the holes for the pivot aren't drilled square to the base on many of the HF ones. Stand a 6" square up on the base as if you are going to cut it. bring the saw down next to it and slide the square so the blade just touches the side of the square at the top. bring the saw down and watch in aw as it magically gets further and further away from the square. You can't "adjust" it. Some are worse than others. Mine runs .125" off over 6"towards the tension spring as it comes down.
The yahoo group has LOTS of useful info and mods. I had to machine the bearing block/guides to alow me to angle the blade away from the spring far enough to offset it... mostly. On 1" 6061 it cuts ~.01 out of square. I'm okay with that. Last night I cut a 3x1.5" 6061 bar and timed it at 9 minutes. it was about .017" out of square.
I'm not complaining... I've billed close to $500 on "cut" charges alone... not to mention what I've made off all the parts I couldn't have made without it
Still debating second a hydraulic down feed. The spring lets it bounce like crazy and any tube or angle must be fed by hand. For my mini-job shop usage I really should just buy a bigger or better saw... but space is TIGHT. As it is I have to move the saw to open some drawers, and move it back to close the garage door.
Its a good saw for the price. personally I use irwin bi metal 10-14 blades and cut everything with them from 3" round steel, 3"x8" 6061 (that was fun trying to align the cut error from one side to the other), stainless, brass, copper, digital scales, plastic, thumb. Really good deal... but be CAREFUL hand feeding thin parts!! ouch. If your trying to cut round shapes on the vertical MAKE LOTS OF RELIEF CUTS.
Well, it's working fine - Did a big ol' chunk of aluminum. Next is going to be a blade change, sitting it in a plastic bin, and piping coolant so that I can cut some 1045...