[Claven2]

Well, I'm proceeding with the electrical mods for the RPM readout.

Here's the LMS DRO module:

Inside the C2 electrical box (gonna be a tight fit):

LMS module disassembled:

C2 box mostly gutted:

control label plate salvaged:

More to follow...

[Claven2]

Here is the new layout for the inside of the control box mocked up:


As you can see, the RPM meter will be where the old speed control and switch locations were on the top of the box. The transformer is mounted just below and to the right of the RPM readout. The switch and speed control are re-mounted to the front face of the control box and are located according to the old faceplate template. The emergency stop button will stay where it was.

I need to make a plastic cover for the top of the control box to cover all the old holes. New holes have already been cut for the new component locations. The plastic top cover will have to have a plexi-glass window over the RPM readout.

I need to get more material (plastic and plexi-glass) to continue. When this mod is done, the "Metalworker" sticker on the front of the control box will be partially obscured by the old control faceplate so it won't be exactly as clean looking as before, but at least I will have hidden the RPM meter inside the lathe, powered it off the lathe internals, and opened up room for my magnetic dial indicator base to sit on the headstock once more.

[VanIsleDSM]

Nice work.

I've done a little modding of my own, but not to my lathe yet.. to my bench grinder.. the work lights on it were horrible, so I replaced them with LEDs.

Pics and a little write up in the tool grinding section here: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55621

[Claven2]

After puting some more thought into this, I may remove the "Metalworker" sticker entirely and re-paint the whole control box. It will look much cleaner this way. Have to see forst if I can get paint to match the "Seig Red" of the lathe.

[Claven2]

Some small progress...

I have decided to fill the holes with JB Weld. If it holds, I will just repaint the casing and fit some plexiglass over the DRO. Also note I did remove the "Metalworker" sticker from the front of the control box. I do not intend to re-install it.


Started some of the wiring. You have to solder some extensions onto the power wires leading off the 110v power supply. I used similar connectors to the others in the Seig lathe. These leads will power the small transformer for the RPM DRO. I will also be installing a toggle switch to power the DRO on and off.


And here are similar connectors installed onto the transformer leads. This will allow the wires to be disconnected for disassembly, as opposed to if I had hard-soldered te wires in place.

[Claven2]

ok, well I got my control box cleaned up and re-painted. All the holes for the new hardware locations are drilled, the JB Weld patches are dressed and painted. I used Krylon plastic grade paint. It's not a perfect color match to the lathe, but it's close enough



Will start re-assembly tomorrow when the paint has cured overnight. I also need to devise some cable clamps for the sensor on the spindle...

[Claven2]

ok, got her done!

In this photo, the control box electronics are all mounted, wired, tested and the plastic ship shield re-installed. I had to remove one of the shield mounting posts to make everything fit (used a dremel abrasive wheel). I added a toggle switch to turn the DRO on and off, otherwise it would have been on all the time whenever the machine was plugged in. I also re-located the fuse port to the chuck-side of the control box.

This photo shows the selector gear housing being tapped for the sensor cable clips I made up from some bent sheet metal. These tapping fixtures are THE way to ensure your taps are straight and won't break. As always use cutting oil (this one is from LMS).

[eddieprice]

Hi Ron. Thanks for your reply to my PM. I have had a look at the back of the saddle and I don't think I will be able to add a cover. There does not appear to be enough room between the pinion and the half nut. A photo of the rear of the saddle is below.
The ruler is sitting on top of the half nut and is up against the pinion. I assume your saddle is different.

Eddie Price

[Claven2]

yes, my saddle is set up differently. Seig has switched from dual half-nuts to one half-nut and a bracket setup. If you look back at my photos, you will see I only have one half-nut.

You CAN retrofit your saddle if you want. LMS sells the bracked and you would need to drill and tap two holes in the saddle.

[eddieprice]

Ron. I don't know if I have missed it, but have you modified the brass nut on the cross-slide that takes the leadscrew to reduce backlash. I have seen a couple of suggestions and wonder which is the best. One refers to a Will Hamlyn's split nut and another refers to a method used by Taig lathes, which involves cutting a longitudinal slit in the nut and squeezing it in a vice to be a tight fit on the leadscrew. Any thoughts?

Eddie Price

[Claven2]

Honestly, I think cross-feed nut mods are highly over-rated. Generally, when turning something you only have to cut in one depth direction per measurement, so just make sure you take up the lash before the tool engages the part. If I HAD to do it, I would probably bake a new nut out of oilite with a horizontal split and out in a transverse tightening bolt.