[cforcht]

Ignition update, I talked with Roy from S/S machine. they have a high speed version of this ignition that fires at 20,000 on 5V and 30,000 at 6V the cost difference is only 10 dollars more per unit. so Im sending these back and hes going to exchange them. I will have to run a regulator to make sure I don't exceed the 6 volts. but i have those on hand already.

[FannBlade]

1) looking to get a new piece of square cast iron (5" X 5" X 8") ground parallel on the tall ends. (I can drop ship)
2) Need a gib made.
3) Existing piece of cast that needs ground on one end to match new 5 X 5 piece.

Let me know if it can handle that size and I will PM more info.

[cforcht]

Fannblade,
Got the grinder home today. got it wired up and yay it works. still have to clean out the coolant tank and get it in place though. my vertical height is just shy of 11"

[FannBlade]

Nice! Lot bigger then I had pictured in my mind.

I will PM you my thoughts.
Kinda got side tracked...been studying VFD's ALL day.

[cforcht]

made a little progress amidst making a living this week. heres the beginnings of the composite crank.

[cforcht]

heres all the pieces laid out.

[cforcht]

heres the crank installed. I still have to cut and install the tungsten counterweights in the crank throws but you get the idea.

[cforcht]

even looks like the picture.

[dynosor]

even looks like the picture.

It looks better than the picture!

Does it spin freely?

[cforcht]

yes it does. but I have found that the main bores on the block are a little tight. if I snug the screws moderately it spins freely but if I sock them down really tight it gets a little tight. not bad but it is noticeable. they are thin cross section bearings so Im not real surprised by it. I may hone the bores a little and use a dab of loctite on the outer races on final assembly. I could let the bearings run in. but not real whoopy about inducing premature wear on the bearings if I can avoid it.

[cforcht]

I got the main bearing bore honed out. now the crank turns freely with the caps bolted down tight. Had a little mill time available so I made the bell housing adapter. I have added a RS550 electric motor to it. I have to order the gears yet but i have it worked out so the engine will be electric start or so the theory goes. well see when I get the gears. the "ring" gear on the crank will be equipped with a 12mm one way bearing so when the engine starts it will over run the bearing and not drive the electric motor. once again in theory.

[dynosor]

the engine will be electric start...the "ring" gear on the crank will be equipped with a 12mm one way bearing so when the engine starts it will over run the bearing and not drive the electric motor. once again in theory.

Looks good - don't see why it won't work.

Is the one way bearing on the largest gear or one of the smaller ones?

[cforcht]

it will be on the gear thats mounted on the crank. it is the largest at 130 teeth. I wanted it on the crank gear so the rest of the gear train isnt being driven while the engine runs.

[cforcht]

the starter will have a 9.285:1 ratio over the engine. the motor has free rpm of 22k at 7.4 volts. this will spin the crank at 2369 rpm. now thats free rpm. wont know actual cranking rpm until its all assembled. If I need to I can up the volts or add more gear reduction if I dont have enough torque on the electric motor.

[dynosor]

It makes sense to not spin the meshed gears unless required.

I presume the flywheel is on the same end of the engine as the ring gear, but mounted to the crankshaft directly?

I don't think you will have any trouble achieving sufficient torque for long enough to start the engine if you apply 12 or 24 volts.

[cforcht]

you are correct.

[cforcht]

made a couple timing covers this afternoon.

[cforcht]

had a little time so I made the blower pulleys and hubs today.

[cforcht]

stumbled across this on the web. can you say overkill?

[Ken_Shea]

Ha-Ha, I can say PhotoShop