[RomanLini]

Jvarga- I see. The female header is on the LCD, the SuperPID board actually has a male header (pins).

I can't say if the short pins will be good enough to go into the female header on the display and be reliable, my gut feeling is that it won't be good enough. As a test you could try connecting it to see if the 1 metre cable will work, that is still an issue as LCDs generally do not like long cabling. If it still works ok with a 1 metre cable you could then look at connection options at the LCD end.

Arbo- Thanks for the suggestion of shielded ribbon cable, that should indeed be better than the non-shielded type to stop the LCD cable picking up interference from power and motor drivers etc.

However that does not address the other issue of cable capacitance, as the LCD signals are high speed and there can be problems with crosstalk and data corruption once the cable gets too long. Like most of my code the LCD system was designed with large safety margins so a 1 metre cable may still work fine, but I have not tested it and can make no guarantees.

[jvarga]

Roman,
Do you feel that substituting discreet wires instead of ribbon cable would minimize the capacitance problem? I made a few PCB coupling boards to join the male & female headers with the ribbon cable or discreet wires (see pic). I'll make up a 1 meter cable assembly with discreet wires, test it with and without a cable shield. I'll keep you posted.

[Arbo]

Ok. I am stumped. I was told the wiring was ok. I am working on my new electronic enclosure, and hooked it up as in the diagram below (only blue lines connected) ..

Power up, G540 comes up fine, voltages are what they should be. Super-PID does not power on. If I disconnect the GND from the G540 (VFD GND) and go straight to a ground, it does power up.

If I check between VFD +10 connector and VFD GND, it reads 0 volts. Which according to the G540, it should not.

[ger21]

The gnd terminal on the SuperPid should be connected to the PC supply gnd.

I don't have a G540, so I don't know why you're connecting the gnd to the G540 VFD gnd?

[Arbo]

It was based on a previous drawing from a user that has a G540 and smooth stepper. And looking at the G540 diagrams, it shows the G540 connected to the ground on a VFD via the G540 connection.

I can move it, as I'm just putting it together, but wonder if it will effect G540 operations.

[RomanLini]

Jvarga- Discreet wires are much lower capacitance than ribbon cable especially if you loose pack them with just a cable tie every 6 inches or so. Ribbon cable is one of the worst for capacitance.

If you are going to use discreet wires there are 4 wires near the middle of the LCD connector that don't need to be connected, I think it is pins 7,8,9 and 10.

Arbo- The VFD ground is normally connected to the PG pin. Basically the 3 wires for the VFD are the same as the 3 pot wires;
P5 -> VFD+
PO -> VFD output
PG -> VFG Ground

It looks like the reason for it not running is that the Super-PID 5v power ground (the terminal called "GND") needs to be connected to your PC ground, or the ground pin on the G540 (I think it might be pin 12 on the G540?).

This is beacuse the 5v DC power that runs the Super-PID consists of these 2 terminals that MUST be connected;
+5v (5v power in to Super-PID)
GND (this is the ground for the 5v supply)

I apologise as I said on the last page that your wiring diagram looked ok, I completely missed the fact that you did not connect the Super-PID "GND" terminal to the 5v supply ground (the main PC ground). Sorry! :embarassed:

Ger21- Thanks! You spotted the missing ground right away and you are exactly right.

About the VFD, from what I know of the G540 it's 3 VFD terminals are completely isolated from the rest of it's circuitry. So this means that the VFD ground must be connected to the 5v ground for the VFD circuit to work.

[restless1]

Roman just got your updated PDF for the superpid version 1.5
On page 24 it shows the vfd wiring straight from the g540 no resisters in the new circuit why...
Also in a previous post an individual soldered a resister on your superpid was this for the vfd input or tach i cannot remember it was like a 4.7 k resister
Thanks!

[RomanLini]

Hi Restless1, yep the new v1 and v2 instructions have just been released. About time too!

The diagram on page 24 of the v1 instructions shows the G540 connected via the three wires. As it was discovered by someone in this thread the G540 VFD module could connect directly to the SuperPID and 5v without needing the resistors. People who want to run the G540 VFD from 10v or 12v still need the resistors, as is shown on another page in the instructions (page 21).

The resistor that needed to be soldered onto the SuperPID was just to make the SuperPID v1 "TACH" output compatible with the fussy inputs on the G540. I did not include that in the v1 instructions as it is changed for SuperPID v2 which does not need that resistor mod now, and for the v1 users only 2 people ever did the mod, and it is discussed and tech supported in this thread.

In the instructions I have used some photos from this thread, of user's router photos and SuperPID installation photos. Thank you everyone who has helped! If anyone objects or would like a change or addition made etc please speak up.

[restless1]

Thanks roman that helps out a lot I had two of your units and I am setting the other one up with the g540 and I had already soldered the 4.7 k resister in and set the superpid to the side while waiting on parts and forgot what it impacted..
But this now makes it all simple (except for the setup and calibration steps in mach3)...
That PDF is helpful and i am glad emails were sent out as I would not of looked on my own for an updated manual.. So much going on and all..
great product and I am so glad it works as advertised ...



Oops editing this now I am reading past page 24 I see the mach3 setup...
Geeze didn't even give me a chance to get screwed up on the Mach3 setup part thanks again..

[Arbo]

Roman, thanks for mentioning the 5v and resistors... I forgot the 22K resistors were for a higher supply. I don't need them since I'll be running on 5v, I forgot about that.

[jvarga]

Hi Roman,
Just want to congratulate you on the superb job you did in creating the Instruction Manual for v2. Difficult job well done.
Thanks!!!!

[lancut]

"As it was discovered by someone in this thread the G540 VFD module could connect directly to the SuperPID and 5v without needing the resistors."

Yes, If you are connecting the VFD G540 5v supply voltage do not use the resistors, otherwise the router rpm will fluctuate all the way to 12000rpm. With out resistors runs like it was designed to.:banana:

[Arbo]

Arbo- The VFD ground is normally connected to the PG pin. Basically the 3 wires for the VFD are the same as the 3 pot wires;
P5 -> VFD+
PO -> VFD output
PG -> VFG Ground

In addition, you must hook 5v somewhere in the P5->VFD+ connection, otherwise there will be no voltage in the VFD circuit (since it's isolated from the 48v that runs the G540)

[restless1]

Arbo i think the superpid puts out the 5 volt on that p5 tap unless i am mistaken!

[Arbo]

Yeah, brain fart on my part. Of course power would have to come from somewhere to go through the POT when the POT is used for speed control. Was a long day yesterday.

[jvarga]

Hi Roman,
Just want to keep you in the circle. I prepared an extension cable for the LCD Module, and checked it out today. The cable is 12 conductor of 22AWG, and 48" long. As you can see in the attached pictures, it works very well with no signal degradation.. I took your suggestion and left pins 7-10 open. I'm not happy with the way my interconnect PCB between the headers and cable worked out so It's a "do-over". Once I complete that I'll keep you and the forum posted.

[RomanLini]

Restless1 Arbo and Lancut- Thanks for the info on the resistors and connecting etc. Everyone has been a massive help with their SuperpID installations and testing on different hardware etc.

Arbo- Yep the "P5" terminal on the SuperPID sends 5v out (as you realised).

Jvarga- That's good the LCD works at 4 foot cable length. I would like to make a couple of suggestions; where the connector goes into the Super-PID it's best to put the wires facing out the other way (away from all the high voltage parts!). I don't like seeing those little LCD wires hanging over the top of hot live resistors and TRIACs etc.

And for reliability I would suggest putting a couple large spots of hot glue to hold that connector secure into the SuperPID PCB and the LCD end too. Normally on a Super-PID the screws hold the LCD firm so they provide security for the connector. Those single row header connectors don't like to be floating around especially on machines where there is vibration etc.

Also, thanks for the compliment on the instructions! I think the more graphical style is a better result but it was way more work than budgeted for.

[restless1]

hey roman how does this stuff look for remote connecting the lcd?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

[Arbo]

Well, ordered a 'project box' to put the super PID in... figured it would be hard to cut one when everything is apart.

I modified my router as well... someone else did the same router a while back. From the incoming white line I disconnected the wire nut and pulled out the wire that went to the speed control, reconnected the wire nut. On the other side, just snipped the yellow and red from the speed control and connected them. No more speed control in play.

Not sure if I am going to cut a plate to replace the speed control (to mount the tube for the sensor to), or use the speed control and just mount the tube in it... the second picture is just showing where (the yellow rod) the tube would exit if I use the speed control to mount the sensor. I'm leaning towards using the speed control as a mounting base, for the reason that the red knob will still be in place, so no big hole to cover..

Last one is just a shot of how the green on black screen looks, for any that have the choice and might be wondering.

[Connor]

Hey Guys, I have a few questions about the Super-PID controller.. I don't use Mach3, I use EMC2, and I really don't need a LCD Display or the external knob.. I just need something I can hookup to the PC and let it control the speed, and report the RPM. Does anyone know if this will work with EMC without too much mucking around?

Thanks, Connor