[sdantonio]

My t-track is mounted in the permanent base of my machine and was never intended to hold parts for cutting. That's what spoil boards are for.

Steve

I wasn't even thinking in terms of cutting through work mounted directly on the table. I was thinking in terms of something mounted on the table for a lengthy cut of maybe a couple of hours or more and the possability of eventually distorting the MDF t-tracks from clamping pressure.

[JerryFlyGuy]

Wohhh, and I thought mine was big at 6 X 3 (ft)

At 6'4" & 225 I suffer from small man syndrome.

Mad Clicker.. do you just screw down your spoil board? Or how are you attaching it to your t slots? Or are you just using a spoil board which is a fair amount smaller than your machine and clamping to the outside edge?

Home Depot doesn't carry the extruded alum slot's so.. It's the mdf/plywood slots for sure...

Jerry

[Madclicker]

Mad Clicker.. do you just screw down your spoil board? Or how are you attaching it to your t slots? Or are you just using a spoil board which is a fair amount smaller than your machine and clamping to the outside edge?

Home Depot doesn't carry the extruded alum slot's so.. It's the mdf/plywood slots for sure...

Jerry

The t-track accepts regular 1/4-20 hex head bolts. I hold the boards down with knobs. Here's the page where I posted my vacuum board:

Goto post 122

I've made some jigs that used toilet bolt tracks made of tempered hardboard (masonite) before. The stuff if cheaper and wears better than MDF.

[CurtisU]

If you go the T track route, instead of routing slots for the tracks why not first anchor your tracks then cut planks to fit between the tracks.

I purchased the Rockler ones, they're less than 3/4 in height (either 1/2" or 5/8" can't recall), my tabletop is 1/2" MDF. I've installed the track and plan to install 3/4" MDF between my tracks this weekend. I've used the router using scraps between the tracks and am pretty sure this is the way to go.

Obviously the tracks could be pulled out if you use woodscrews to secure but I've observed that I don't need as much clamping pressure as I originally thought anyway.

Curtis

PS bought mine on sale, it may be a product that comes up on sale frequently

[JerryFlyGuy]

I think I'm pretty much commited to going the milled T slot route, reason being is I want to change it up to steel plate with Alum T slot over it. It will cost my ~ $5000 to do it, and those extruded 't' strip's would cost me ~$500 for a temporary solution.. 10% of the final cost of my table. The milled slots are a cheap solution until then.

Jerry

[randyf1965]

The blind nut's were going to cost $20/hundred and I needed 2500 of them.. so that was as much money as the alum insert slots. I'll still check at Home Depot tonight for the alum inserts but if I don't find them.. this is what I'll build instead.. it's by far the cheapest route.

thanks again guy's

Jerry[/quote]

Parts Express has 1/4"-20 t-nuts for $3.45/50


http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ctGroup_ID=829

[Marm]

I have some 8020 extruded AL and the problem is you have to use there hardware for the tracks since it is a different size. I have bought my T-Track from WoodPeckers and they are also less than 3/4" might be 5/8, they want $6.95 if you buy 10+ of the 36" ones here is the link http://www.woodpeck.com/wpttrack.html#722 . I was just thinking of using a T-slot bit in 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood.