[nervis1]

I have a 100A 230 breaker going to my 20 HP 3 phase convertor. I should run in 3ph from that eh?
I could probably rig something up, like two lines coming from the breaker, just run one at a time. I would not be running the CNC at the same time anyway.

[ESjaavik]

@Nervis: From the blurb at the website you pointed to, it seems your machine will adapt to the voltage and take 1ph or 3ph. So it should just be able to connect directly to your 100A 230V. No need to suffer the losses through the 3ph converter.

Disclaimer: I only go by the info on the webpage, so you better check it can be connected to 230V, 100A, 1Ph to be sure. You will be running 100A through just 2 rectifier legs instead of all 3, it may not be rated for this.

And 100A 230V would probably be an overload for your converter. Does'nt matter for your welding machine though, as the load will not be continous.

[ViperTX]

So, just a cautionary note: Make sure that the wiring will handle the current of whatever breaker you have.....hot wires can cause fires.....

Also....a quick acting breaker will have to be rated higher then a time delay breaker...you know fast blow versus slow blow.

[hawkins1]

"Thermal Arc" machines ( by Thermadyne) are a good unit that will do what you want. Their small welders will run off 110V or 220/240V single phase.
There are several models with different upper end amperage levels (price goes up with capability). I have one that will produce 150 amps weld current. I think the next model up is a 180 amp unit.
That would produce a hot enough arc to weld 1/4" alum. in the AC mode (you will want to buy the High frequency option for AC welding)
If you choose to weld alum. in the DC mode you do not need nearly as much current BUT your alum. must be very clean and the weld bead is difficult to see joining. You get much deeper penetration of the weld pool with DC which makes welding thin pieces(<1/8) difficult as well.
Water cooling is nice but not necessarily required if you are not doing long duration (timewise) welds.

[nervis1]

The Dynasty 200 seems to run fine on a 30 amp circut even at 200 amp output.

I'd attach a pic but the "manage attachments" button doesn't seem to want to cooperate right now.

My welding skills stink.

I have a question for yoy TIG guys. I'm just running beads across aluminum plate at this point, practice. My welds seem to get fatter and fatter as I go. Is that just me adding too much filler as I go, or moving too fast or slow?

[Scott V]

The Dynasty 200 seems to run fine on a 30 amp circut even at 200 amp output.

I'd attach a pic but the "manage attachments" button doesn't seem to want to cooperate right now.

My welding skills stink.

I have a question for yoy TIG guys. I'm just running beads across aluminum plate at this point, practice. My welds seem to get fatter and fatter as I go. Is that just me adding too much filler as I go, or moving too fast or slow?

Back off you juice or speed up. Notice that it takes longer to start a bead too. Same deal in reverse.

[nervis1]

So you don't stay at a constant speed? You speed up as you go or back off on the pedal? Damn, that's a whole new deal isn't it. This is going to take some practice.

So if I start at 150A, how much do I back off in general as I go, like 25%?


How do you prevent that little crater at the end of the bead?

[Scott V]

Maybe more then 25 % Your Dynasty is a little different them most because of all the adjustments. Try to get to a point where you can weld as fast as you can. It will keep the aluminum from getting too hot. Then it will be easier to stop the crater and the end of the weld bead. Try to back off the pedal some while adding filler will get rid of it. If it's too hot it's a bi*ch. The faster you go the less distortion you will have and the more the uniform weld bead. Try your pulse after you get more practice in and it could help you some. about .9 pulses per second to start.

[kenlambert]

sounds like to much heat

[nervis1]

Thought I'd post this up for the "real" TIG welders so you can have a laugh .

These are my first four welds...well those first couple are more like explosions, the last one may qualify as a bad weld.

Whatever, I'm getting better slowly, just did some butt welds today that did not look half bad.

[nervis1]

I still crack up when I see that first one....WHOA, this doesn't look right LOL...smoke all over...LOL

[hawkins1]

Learning how much to back down on your foot-pedal will come with practice. A good way to help judge how much and to become more consistant is to scribe 2 well defined lines about the width of the bead you wish to maintain. Run your bead between them so the edges of the weld pool/bead just cover the lines. Just a little experience working the pedal, your travel speed and torch manipulation will help you lay down a consistant width bead. I find it is generally easier to back off on the pedal than to speed up. You will also maintain a more uniform bead crown and laps this way.

[lesd]

The work is heating up all over, making the bead spread out more. You can go faster to aviod that.

[DSL PWR]

Just remember that aluminum is quite forgiving---> you can rework the weld until it is pretty, and mechanically sound with the torch. Until you get used to the torch just try some welds without filler rod.

[Mortek]

OK guys I thought I would put in my 2 bits. I own a miller syncrowave 350LX. What do I love about this machine, it is quiet. The cooling fan only comes on when needed, and that depends on how high of amerage you are using. Even at 300 amps it doesn't come on too often. I also love the square wave adjustment, what did we do before square wave????? I do a fair amount of welding on 1/4" aluminum tubing. I have a Weldcraft Wp20 water cooled torch which I love because it is small and easy to manipulate in any position. This torch is rated at 250 amps, but I push it over 300 all the time with excelent results. My best results with heavy aluminum is to use DC straight current(electrode negative) and pure helium gas. No preheating is necessary, even on 1/2 inch or thicker workpiece. When using this system make sure your alum. is clean by wire brushing as you won't have the benefit of the high frequency cleaning. The weld will have a dark soot on each edge with a shiny strip down the middle of the bead. The soot will wire brush off easily, as it is powdery. You must push your filler rod in with authority or it will burn back on you before you get to the puddle. Helium ionizes 2x hotter than argon. You can use an argon/helium mix with AC current for a boost in thickness welding. But if you want to move fast and get good penetration use straight helium. It also cuts down on the current. I have a 125 amp single phase breaker and have tripped that from time to time so I open the panel and put a blower on it to keep it cool and it never tripps. I also have a cnc machining center in my garage. I welded aluminum one day while running the machining center and my g54 offset kept moving on me. So I don't run the machine while welding anymore.

[nervis1]

Holy smoke, that is one pretty weld.

[Swede]

Mortek, that's illegal and obscene. Go away. (flame2) Seriously, I can't do welds with that uniformity and bead shape even with the most benign mild steels. I am bitter with jealousy!

Nervis, you're doing better than me. I gave up on aluminum, I just can't seem to get the hang of it, although my steel welding is getting much better. I'm using a Lincoln SQ175, which is pretty much a hobby/home machine, but it's pretty good for what I am attempting.

I applaud your effort.

[B_Bueno]

I have many years of tig experience, mixing argon and helium vs. straight helium has it's benefits, ie; less amps used. I found using straight helium made for harder starts of the arc. Great results are noticed with a 75%Ar/ 25% He. I have a bottle of both and plumbed them after the flowmeters to achieve these mixes, took a while to nail it and it's cost effective, mixed gasses are a bit pricey. The machine I use is an L-Tec 250 HF Plus bought new in '92 and still produces great welds. I bought it because Linde developed tig and I tend to stick with products by company's who develope them.

[Mortek]

B_Bueno,
I agree with you about welding with straigh helium when using ac current. Helium will cause an eratic unstable arc, and cause harder starts. I am talking about using helium only with dc straight current. I mixed my gasses just like you do until I bought the miller 350lx. With square wave technology I find that I don't need to mix gasses much any more. If you haven't tried using dc straight on thick aluminum you should try it. It takes some getting used to, but if you are welding on 1/4 inch thick or thicker I would highly reccomend it.

[B_Bueno]

Never used dc on al. Will definetly give it a go. What should I be aware of for the "getting used to it" part? Thanks