[rlockwood]

Thank you for your inquiry about our Power Draw Bar (PDB).

The PDB is available in kit form which can be added to the purchase of either Torus PRO Servo or Stepper CNC mills. Older NM-200 series mills may also be upgraded with this kit with slight variations to the wiring harness. For specific installation requirement for earlier NM-200 mills, please contact Novakon support at [email protected] for your application. The kit is listed on our web store as follows:

Torus PRO Power Draw Bar

Our best regards,
Novakon Team

Eh, thats not bad at all. Its slightly more than the competition, but for a considerably better setup.

[MRM RCModels]

Eh, thats not bad at all. Its slightly more than the competition, but for a considerably better setup.

I agree, when you consider what is provided.

1. LED Display with real-time spindle RPM
2. SMART Capability - E-Stop Trigger if PBD is activated while machine is in motion
3. Entire sequence is automated via micro processor
4. Error codes displayed in the case of malfunction
5. Works identically with normal R8 tooling

In short, I'm surprised the PDB doesn't cost more than Novakon is charging. I have the beta unit, so it will only get better from here. Stay on the look out for my eval video this weekend. Should be pretty comprehensive.

[slowtwitch]

Eh, thats not bad at all. Its slightly more than the competition, but for a considerably better setup.

I was somewhat surprised myself. A fair price for what you are getting

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Just made one of the last pre-production "tweaks". The beta units use a large-ish air cylinder which requires the customer to provide 60 PSI regulated air. I've just replaced it with a smaller cylinder that generates the required force on a nominal pressure of 100PSI, which is about what most shop air supplies are. So, in most cases, a pressure regulator should not be needed. Here it is:



Regards,
Ray L.

[AUSTINMACHINING]

Excellent. I could get rid of my secondary regulator. I use 100psi for my mist cooler.

[kvom]

Have you done any experiments re pullout with carbide mills and either the TTS or R8 collets? I've had some pullout issues with the standard NM200 drawbar and 1/2" R8 collets using carbide.

[LeeWay]

The only times I have experienced any pull out is generally due to lack of cleanliness. Totally my fault. I try to keep a coat of Boesfeld T9 on my tools to keep rusting down. Especially ones I use less often. If I forget to clean the shafts before use, I can see pullout, but even then it is not often. I do use a butterfly impact though. It is set about 3/4 power though, so not even full strength.
Quality of the collet is also a big factor. When I first started out, I bought some real cheap ones. They worked because I was tightening them by hand in the X2 and is was only an X2 spindle.
Once I put more power on that spindle, they started failing more often unless extra care was taken. Better collets just work better.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Have you done any experiments re pullout with carbide mills and either the TTS or R8 collets? I've had some pullout issues with the standard NM200 drawbar and 1/2" R8 collets using carbide.

I've been using this style of drawbar (my first one are stepper-driven) for several years, with every kind of tool imaginable. I've NEVER had pull-out with any of them, except one time when there was a problem with the drawbar itself. Failing to properly clean and lubricate the collet taper, or allowing the tool shanks or collet ID can also lead to pull-out, though I've never experienced either. In fact, I've been tempted to try, just as a test, spraying a tool shank with WD40, then taking a heavy cut, just to see what happens. Properly maintained, this style of drawbar can retain the tool extremely well under all reasonable conditions.

Regards,
Ray L.

[MRM RCModels]

His design changed a lot over the past few years. It's been on 2 machines that I know of. People tend not to post details on a new product and yes he used more than a half inch end mill.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4

[LeeWay]

I think that is what they are saying. It won't make a difference if it is clean and dry. It may not always make a difference if it isn't, but under the right circumstances it can of course, and does.
The last time I had a pull out was on the Torus using Tormach collet and TTS tools cutting steel with a 3/8" end mill. No harm came of it as I was watching closely, but before I had a lower setting on my impact at that time, which is why I increased it to 3/4 torque. I imagine I could soak it in oil if I went full torque on the impact as well, but I would be replacing the draw bar more often I think.
Now my TTS tools are rarely spotless. There is often light oil on the shank just from handling them and having a coating on the rest of the holder with no ill effects.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Today I started making the "production" PDB fixtures. The fixtures are designed to make 5 of each part in one shot. Here's the first one:





Regards,
Ray L.

[AUSTINMACHINING]

Nice!!

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Got another fixture made today. As soon as my MiteeBite Uniforce clamps show up, I can put them to work!

Attachment 198444



Regards,
Ray L.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Two more fixtures done today:

Attachment 198678

Attachment 198680

These fixtures have really given my tapping head a good workout as well. Each one contains at least about 40 tapped holes, and some are almost twice that.

Unfortunately, I'll soon be dead in the water for a while, until my metal order arrives. I will be able to make a few of the actual parts, once my MiteeBite clamps show up, which I hope will be Monday or Tuesday. In the meantime, I do have a bunch of clamp "bars" to make, though they're very simple, so won't take long.

I have to say again: I LOVE this machine! It is just so reliable, and absolutely consistent. It always works, and every part is exactly like every other part. I have yet to measure a part that was off by much over 0.001", and most are well under 0.001"!

Regards,
Ray L.

[kvom]

Any experience using form taps with the Torus? The guys on PM swear by them for production tapping.

[keithmcelhinney]

What tapping head are you using?

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Any experience using form taps with the Torus? The guys on PM swear by them for production tapping.

Haven't tried them yet, but I just a few days ago ordered a few, along with some spiral flute taps to test. Right now I'm using spiral point taps, which are wonderful for hand tapping, but less than ideal for machine tapping.

Regards,
Ray L.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

What tapping head are you using?

I'm using the cheap Chinese tapping head everyone sells. I got a deal when one of the folks here decided to sell one he'd bought and never used. I LOVE it! It's soooooo much faster and easier than doing it by hand.

Regards,
Ray L.

[rlockwood]

Any experience using form taps with the Torus? The guys on PM swear by them for production tapping.

The process for form tapping is nearly identical to traditional tapping. Tap drill size is far more critical, and needs to be controlled in most cases to less than 1% of the tap diameter. Tap drill size is also different than traditional tapping, so be sure youre working off of a cold form or roll tap specific chart. It also requires something like 2x the horsepower, but that shouldn't give problems until some rather large taps.

[polaraligned]

I will be able to make a few of the actual parts, once my MiteeBite clamps show up,
Regards,
Ray L.

I always love reading your posts Ray. Thanks for sharing.
I have used the Miteebite fixture clamps before and often had them come loose during machining and my part and cutter was instantly ruined. I hope you have better luck than I have had.