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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    746
    Very nice table, AAAAAA+++++

    Looks like a piece of fine furniture that you would find in a high end funiture store. Is the router plate aluminum or melmine.
    If it's not nailed down, it's mine.
    If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    The insert is black acrylic with 6 leveling set screws.

    Is the system you're talking about "quickrout". Looks interesting and if you get it I'd like to hear what you think. I've never used it, but can say from experience that easy setup is very welcome. I now have 4 laminate routers that keep me from constantly swapping bits and changing the setup.

    I also need to make new cabinet doors for my project home. HF has a 3 piece panel raising set for $20 and they send me a 20% off coupon every week.

    Steve

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    746
    "Quickrout" was what I was refering to, didn't remember the name. There is a traveling woodworking show that comes thru town every March, displaying bunches of tools. At the last show there was a company that had a 5 pc. carbide raised panel/drawer kit for $69.00 and for a few dollars more you could get the templates. I thought it was a good deal but just couldn't swing it, maybe next time. If I got that thenI would have to get the bigger router to use the 1/2" bits. Over the years I've come to the conclusion, spend a few dollars more for the better stuff and you will have fewer headaches, you don't always need the best.
    If it's not nailed down, it's mine.
    If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    I also like better stuff. I'm still stuck in the "at least 1 of everything" mode.

    I stole a few hours from my yard work and paid some kids, so I was able to do some work on the torsion boxes.

    The first pic shows the batch cut skeleton parts for the 2 sides, and top and bottom TB's.

    The second shows the dryfit to confirm that my late night "Miller Lite Engineering" numbers work....YAHOO!. The gussets work as alignment and spacing setups, just as planned.

    The third show the final small TB skeleton. The second on of these went much faster.

    First TB's and I'm sure happy.

    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails TBskeleton_parts.jpg   1st dryfit.jpg   finalsides.jpg  
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    578
    So you got the frame and the TBoxes. Where you going with this? You got a plan we can watch?

    Looks like a nice sliding table on the saw for cutoffs.
    Steve

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    746
    Is that MDF you are using for your boxes.
    If it's not nailed down, it's mine.
    If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    Steve,

    The Al table that I reworked is for making accurate torsion boxes and hopefully another, better machine.

    I wish I had better cad skills, but the CU campus I studied at had few ME courses when I went there. I got a BSEE and did my grad work in control systems, specifically spacecraft control.

    This record of my work will just be pictorial and written unless someone want's to volunteer help.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    2much,

    Yes it is mdf. I love it except for the flour dust machining it creates.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    746
    You ought to be a whiz when it comes time to do the electrical end of things. I can see it now, a power supply/driver enclosure that resembles the space shuttle. All those little buttons, switches and lights.

    I know what you mean about the dust, it gets everywhere. I have become a fan of Baltic Birch veneer plywood, partly because of the dust and that I get a fair amount of the plywood from my work. We get equipment shipped in from Europe and the crates are made out of the stuff. I have made base and upper cabinets for the utility room, my workshop and the garage.
    If it's not nailed down, it's mine.
    If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    Steve,

    That cross-cut sled is a workhorse. It's what made it possible to cut these 130+ pieces in a few hours.

    2much,

    Not gonna reinvent the wheel on the electronics...not even build the wheel from scratch. Did too much of that in college. I'm 90% set on gecko's and hope I can find some cheap servo's before I get to the point of having to buy them. You are somewhat right on the bells, whistles, buttons and lights. I'm designing a control panel that will send mach 2 keystroke shortcut to the comp with just a button push. Should be cool. I may also make a PS, but that's a trivial thing.

    I stole time from production to start on the top TB. This will be the hardest one because it is topped with 3/4" mdf and needs to be routed for 6 t-tracks before I laminate it. The pic shows the skeleton. A pretty full day.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails main_tb_table.jpg  
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    578
    Nice boxes. I love that look. Looks like you went with just mini ribs and not interlocking half laps. Saves a lot of work and I bet just as strong. Did you pin it or just glue?

    I understand the CAD thing. But I am just wondering what you are planning for liner bearings.

    Steve

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    Steve,

    I'm gonna use skate bearings on 2" EMT similar to what Gerry did. The pipe supports will be different and unique to anything I've seen anywhere i think.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    oh yea. I wanted to pin the box, but my nailer kept jamming, so i just globbed on the glue.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    More progress. The first pic shows the 1/4" skin I put on the bottom and the bolt access holes I cut. Also the jigs I made to cut them.

    Since my brad nailer won't quit jamming I had to improvise on gluing the skins. Used gobs of glue and lots of weight. The second pic shows how I did it. Used all the heavy stuff in the shop and many clamps around the perimeter.

    Not too bad for only a weeks work.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668

    geesh, forgot pics!

    Long day!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bottom_skin.jpg   3.75_skin.jpg  
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    578
    Pattern cutting. Good man.

    1/4"? looks like 1/2" from here, but all I got are your pics. Come on don't be a tease, where you going with this?

    Steve

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    Quote Originally Posted by spalm
    Pattern cutting. Good man.

    1/4"? looks like 1/2" from here, but all I got are your pics.
    The bottom is skinned in 1/4"...the first pic. The second pic shows the glue-up of the 3/4" top skin.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668
    Quote Originally Posted by spalm

    Come on don't be a tease, where you going with this?

    Steve
    Be patient weedhopper.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668

    It's gonna be steppers for X and Y

    Made a good buy on 3 SE nema 42 840 oz/in steppers last night. I'll put 2 on the X and the other on the Y. Z still up in the air.

    Not much other progress. Trimmed the 3/4" skin on the TB but the bearing failed and I messed up about 3' of the edge before I noticed. Oh, well. 2 forward 1 back. MDF is easy to repair.
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    668

    Cutting t-track grooves

    Cut the grooves for the t-track on the main bed today. Also worked on seating and bedding the track. Will finish after I laminate and trim the grooves of the laminate.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cutting_grooves.jpg  
    Steve
    DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!

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