http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186540 should be fixed, might want to drop a reply in that thread.
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http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186540 should be fixed, might want to drop a reply in that thread.
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Hey Widgitmaster -
I'm getting the same deal with chrome. To bypass while using Chrome: If you click on the "Advanced" link to the right of the "Go Back" button you will see two items appear where the "Advanced" link was. The link on the right should say something like "Proceed at your own risk", click that and you are in.
This lets me use chrome and bypass the malware warning. What is likely happening is someone is uploading an attachment that is infected [I'm assuming innocently without their knowledge] and Google/Chrome/McAffee look for this and flag the site as a malware source.
Shane
You can see what has been happening here in problems forum and post any problems you are having. In the past it has been due to Google seeing files that it thinks contains malware code, but doesn't.
In Firefox security settings you can tell it to ignore the warnings. At your own risk of course.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
I had to clear my cache and cookies.
It happened to me yesterday. I still get the warning screen, but Paul says its fixed now, so should go away soon.
Lee
WOW, That must have been a bad Cyber Attack!
This morning Microsoft updated my XP OS with a bunch of security installs!
Now lets get back to the build!!!
I have removed one of the long rails, and clamped it to the cross ribbing. Then I removed one of the long tubes, and placed it on top of the router table.
Next I made up a pair of setting gauges that will attach to the same 6mm screw holes that are used by the long rails. The gauge will allow me to accurately clamp the 3/4" solid square bar down the side of the long tube. Then the welder can put a stitch-weld between the gauges, and move over to the next set of 6mm holes. All this to ensure the square bar is 3/8" down from the top of the long tube! When the welding is finished, I will place the long tube in the mill, and cut a 1/2" x 1/2" step down the entire length of the weldment. This will be an accurate nest for the rack-gear to nest in!
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
While CNCZone was down, I worked on the X & Y-Axis drive mechanisms. Here is a preview!
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Nothing new to post, as I'm still waiting on materials, components, and the welder! Who is MIA![]()
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Widget,
IT's Friday and you know when a welder gets payday, its libation time for a day or so!!!! He will show up on Monday:})
Art
AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)
Good News! The welder arrived and my parts are being welded
Now I have an electric question!
What is required to hookup steppers with encoders?
I have purchased a little encoder kit from Automation Technology Inc., along with one of their NEMA34 steppers. THe motor has a dual shaft and two threaded holes on the back end for mounting the encoder! The maximum shaft diam is 8mm, and the stepper is 12.7mm, I have no problem turning the shaft diam to fit the encoder, but not if it can't be connected into my router!
I have looked through the manual for the PMDX brealout board, and do not see anything for encoders.
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Mach3 can't close the loop http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind...?topic=15204.0
You will need special stepper drivers, or linuxcnc, and the encoders will only work to trigger estop if you lose steps, which should never happen if set up right.
I thought we covered this already![]()
And please don't disassemble the motor to turn the shaft down, you will kill it.
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Found this http://www.rogersmachine.net/encoderinterface.html but a search on it just found a bunch of problems getting it to work correctly, and it will only go into feed hold if it senses a position error.
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You can look into the k-flop from dynomotion. They can do closed loop steppers. Also works with mach 3.
Ben
Now that is disappointing, I really wanted to use encoders on this machine!
But not if I can't use all the nice boards from PMDX,Inc. and Gecko drivers!
So far I've only ordered one of the encoder kits for $39.95
And NO, I would never dismantle a stepper, as I know it would kill it!
Turning it between centers on the lathe would not have been a problem tho!
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Sorry in advance, I don't want to hijack the thread, but I've got to ask, why does dismantling a stepper kill it? I've done several and have never seen an issue.
btw, enjoying watching your build!
cheers, Ian
It's rumoured that everytime someone buys a TB6560 based board, an engineer cries!
They are magnetized after being assembled, and you lose some of the flux when you take the rotor out of the stator. Not true for all steppers, but definitely the hybrid breed.
It won't kill it completely, just reduce the torque by a good margin, and chances are they will run too hot at their rated amps afterwards.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...er_motors.html
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A little progress today!
So far I've cut the steel tubes for the X-Axis slide frame, along with some of the smaller plates. Every thing has been filleted for welding.
The rest arrived today, and I quickly washed off all the black oil from the steel so my whole shop doesn't get that nasty look! I think they coat the steel with used motor oil, it's bad !
The long beam has not returned from the welder, but now I have some other parts to keep me busy![]()
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
This morning I started squaring up the steel plates in the mill, first by placing the vise on its rotary base. Then I dialed the vise in square, and milled the short end of the thicker plates. Now I have to rearrange the jaws, so that I can mill the long side of the plates. Next I milled the short end of the big 1/2" thick plates, milling them to length. The stock was way oversize, so I scribed a line and made several passes .1" deep until I cut through the long side of the plate leaving a nice strip of metal for the stock pile!
The 1" thick plate will mount on top of the three linear trucks, then the gantry will attach to the thick plate. The edge of the plate will have three 3/8-16 UNC threads, for attaching the thinner plate. There will be two gusset's welded to the bottom of the 1" plate, which will attach to the thinner front plate. The thin plate will have two 1" diam posts welded from the back, a short one will protrude .500" and have a 3/8"-16 UNC thread in the center. This will be the pivot post for the NEMA34 motor swing plate.
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
The guys at the Air Boat shop made me a really nice water tank for the Spindle's cooling system!
It measures 18" long, 9" wide, and 6 1/2" tall. It holds 4.2 Gallons! They even welded up a nice fill port with a cap, and two ports for a transparent water level tube connection! The drain is on the bottom.
The pump is 1/8 HP, 13 GPM (gallons per minute), which is obviously overkill![]()
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Sweet...
Wish I could TIG weld like that. Wish I could TIG weld at all.![]()
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com