[Switcher]

If he can't fix this one, hows he going to build one ?

You already own a cnc, just make it so you can adjust the table! (and start cutting)

[vacpress]

i would look into the easiest and most economical way to replace the y axis guides and\or leadscrew. both seem like they would help, but the leadscrew would probably be easier to replace.. let me suggest some ebay auctions..


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Good luck!

Also, if you end up getting new lienar bearings and need some new parts machines to fit them to your gantry, id imagine someone on the site here can probably give you avery good rate to make the simple 2.5D aluminum parts.. If i had a machine that would work, I would do it for you.

This deepgroove person seems inept. It isnt fair that he thinks he can sell machines he has designed, then uses his design-flaw as an excuse! (but you know this... not to, you know, rub it in)

Robert.

[chuckknigh]

Sometimes it's easier to start from scratch, than to fix "someone else's mess."

-- Chuck Knight

[Ed_R]

I currently don't have the resources to put much more into it other than time. If I had a choice I'd have a MaxNc MaxPath 42 or a moving gantry of similar size, but I don't have 5 grand. HEck, I don't have 5 bucks any more!
CLosed loop moving gantry, 3 feet in x and y, 8 inches in Z, would suit me fine. As long as it cuts square and within 5 thou or so.

[andy_ck87028]

moving existing screw to the side and slave to another on the other side through a timing belt would resolve racking and should be pretty cheap.

Doesn't interfere with electronics or require replacement parts only additional.

All it really takes then is time.

Andy

[paulC]

moving existing screw to the side and slave to another on the other side through a timing belt would resolve racking and should be pretty cheap.

That is not necessarily correct. We have no idea of the hardware in use and Ed_R would have to replicate what ever is being used. He has already stated he is on a tight budget.

Ed_R is there any possibility of getting some pictures of the bearings and screws. Its proberbly the only way we can provide more ideas.

Paul

[Ed_R]

Nto withouta digital camera, and I dropped mine a few weeks back.

[paulC]

What should have been asked first is can you send the thing back and get a refund?

If not.
Can't borrow a camera from someone?
Can you describe the screws. Are they ball screws, acme thread or just threaded rod?
What sort of nuts?
Is the thread securely mounted so it can't move back and forth?
Can you sketch the bearing assembly to give us some idea of how it fits together?

Paul

[randyf1965]

Nto withouta digital camera, and I dropped mine a few weeks back.

CVS has a cheap one use digital for $10 or $20 with an lcd screen. it is a 1.1 megapixel camera and with a couple of downloads and an easy to make cable you can use it over and over.

http://myweb.nmu.edu/~tstrothe/PV2mods/PV2mods.htm

this is the link I used to convert my camera

[andy_ck87028]

Ed_R

The consensus seems to be that more info is required.

Couldn't you borrow a camera or perhaps a mobile with camera?

Help can then be much more targetted and relevant.

Andy

[Ed_R]

I'll find a camera to use soon.

[swiss-1]

I've ran mills before - metal types (not router mills - except handhelds).
Being familiar with climb/conventional cutting and G41 and G42 ... ...
Have you tried using an dial indicator to rule out that the table is in-line with the spindle (x,y axis)? 1-2-3 blocks should be square enough to check this.

I don't think you have a gear/backlash issue if a CNC type dealing with the spindle:
Conventional is normally used on Bridgeports because of the gears causing backlash - thus added deflection.
CNC motors if (for wood) are similar for cutting metal do not use gears thus can climb cut resulting in better finish, tool life and less deflection. I would think at the high rpm's for woods there would not be much difference except hardwoods and the tearing that was mentioned earlier /as it apears climb cut is the way to go CW.


Check that the table is on first - a cheap indicator should read accurately enough.
If not available chuck a cutter shank down (or some solid ground dia)
Moving the table L to R secure a square block - tapping it know you have one side (one axis) in-line with your spindle.
Then go to the other edge (90 degrees) using a piece of paper as a feeler gage move in that axis direction check the catch points - if that block is square the table is off.

Good luck.