[adamvs]

We use baking pans in the bottom of the tray, so we catch almost all of the oil before it goes into the coolant tank.

I'm not so careful to be honest. But the coolant tank is so well designed, it takes about 5 minutes to just roll it out, pull the strainer off and get in with a paper towel to sop up most of the tramp oil. As many know, not so on the 1100 which is a huge PITA to do any coolant maintenance.
Sorry, but I just gotta be the contrarian here and say 'if it ain't broke..'. The swiveling ( or whatever they are meant to be ) fittings won't move if the lines going to them are secured in the right place. And there's what? 10 psi when you're moving oil - the o-rings should hold no problem.

[LeeWay]

But that was the point the OP made. His is broken. Likely because it was allowed to swivel. And was not secured well enough by any clamps. When you do things ahead of a possible issue later on, it's called preventative maintenance.
Running a hard line to the ball screw would be preferable I would think.
I think I can get a socket in there on mine with the use of the HF inspection camera if I need to.

I'll just keep an eye on that one for now. At least I figured out a way to do it without removing the table. Didn't do it soon enough to help out the OP though.

[adamvs]

But that was the point the OP made. His is broken. Likely because it was allowed to swivel. And was not secured well enough by any clamps. When you do things ahead of a possible issue later on, it's called preventative maintenance.
Running a hard line to the ball screw would be preferable I would think.
I think I can get a socket in there on mine with the use of the HF inspection camera if I need to.

I'll just keep an eye on that one for now. At least I figured out a way to do it without removing the table. Didn't do it soon enough to help out the OP though.

All for preventative maintenance. The issue will bite you always when you least need a problem. The OP, man, that is lousy luck. Far as I could see they just screwed up at the factory, the clamp should have never been on the side of the trough, but on the bottom to keep the line pointing down. How that got qualled, if they even did it that day is a mystery.

[MichaelHenry]

7.8 mm or .307"

Thanks - sounds like an appropriately sized flat washer should work as well (if needed) and should be easy to find in on-hand stock or just make from scratch.

[LeeWay]

Right. Some spots can use a larger OD washer than .5" but a few spots around the dovetails need .5" or less.

[mountaindew]

Lee - do you know what ID those sealing washers need to fit the banjo fittings? My lathe is due to ship soon and I'm about to place an order with McMaster-Carr for that sort of thing and would rather have them in time for the lathe's arrival.

Mike

Nice purchase mike, good luck on new lathe!
Quick question, these lube fittings on my mill are not tight and most of them can be wiggled around. What is recommended for these fittings ?
Thanks for help in advance!

[LeeWay]

I don't know what is recommended. I am sure Tormach would say they have a reason since the mills exhibit the same deficiencies. There is a thread on here about these fittings on the 1100 too.
I do know that they can leak when left loosy goosy like they are. I don't think that was the designers intention. I do know that washers would stop both swivel and leak. I cannot see anywhere that these are installed at that even require any movement from these fittings. Not sure about on the mill.

[mountaindew]

I don't know what is recommended. I am sure Tormach would say they have a reason since the mills exhibit the same deficiencies. There is a thread on here about these fittings on the 1100 too.
I do know that they can leak when left loosy goosy like they are. I don't think that was the designers intention. I do know that washers would stop both swivel and leak. I cannot see anywhere that these are installed at that even require any movement from these fittings. Not sure about on the mill.

I inspected my lines after reading this thread and found many of them are not tight. In the past I had tightened some of the ferules and end fittings and for some reason never noticed these were not tight.
I agree, I don't see a reason for them to move although they don't look like they leak. Guess its time to service machine and do some inspection and repair on oil system.

[MichaelHenry]

I've only checked the oil fitting at the top of Z on my 1100 and that seemed tight. I have an early XXX Series I mill though and they may have changed things since then. I'm finally doing the Series upgrade now along with some overdue maintenance and will try to check a few other fittings as I go.

[mountaindew]

I've only checked the oil fitting at the top of Z on my 1100 and that seemed tight. I have an early XXX Series I mill though and they may have changed things since then. I'm finally doing the Series upgrade now along with some overdue maintenance and will try to check a few other fittings as I go.

I decided to check and re-verify ball-nut lubrication on x, y ,z . Also service the lube system in general, tune and check the mill while its all apart and better access . After removing all the pans and way covers out of the way I could see z, and x ball screws get far more lube then the y ball screw. Looks like they all get lube so I'm not going to fret to much about it and just check and tighten fittings carefully

While checking the lube system I pumped a great deal of lube thru system and noticed some gray colored particles dripping down from end edges of the x axis ways !
Is this Turcite or Rulon coating wear?
I double checked the gib adjustments and everything looks good so I don't think anything is to tight.
Is this normal or has anyone else ever notice this?
The mill is very clean otherwise it would be almost impossible to see something like this.

Sorry about thread sidetrack for questions on mill lube system. They are similar tho
Thanks for any experience or insight!