[SScnc]

The ones from VXB pictured and linked below appear to be them. At only $7.00 each that seems like it would be quite an upgrade for very little money. But I'm not sure where they're made.

I'll contact VXB and ask them.

Thanks for all the info !

[Crevice Reamer]

They are 30206 bearing (european numbering scheme), this is for MT3 spindle only, as R8 has different shoulders.
They are 30mm inside, 62mm outside, packing width 17.25mm.

The R8 spindle uses the same TOP bearings as the MT-3. The R8 BOTTOM bearing size is:

ID= 35mm
OD= 62mm
WI= 14mm

CR.

[SScnc]

CR, you're a "wealth" of information ! thanks.

I have the Grizzly G8689 with the MT3 which I had thought about changing to an R8, but now that I use TTS type tool holders I like the MT3 with it's short length.

So what do you think about this taper bearing conversion ?

Steve

[SScnc]

Well I finally got the taper roller bearing "upgrade" done. I used the ones from VXB pictured in my previous post. mchabot is correct about these bearings being VERY noisy, I tweaked around until I got the preload correct and it all seems to work good but the *%@#*&$!!! noise !

Will this noise decrease any the more time they get on them or will it get worse ? I'm hoping they just need some "breaking in". It almost seems like the taper rollers are out of round or have flat spots on them or something.

I can live with it for now but I'd appreciate any input or advice,

SS

[hoss2006]

thanks for resurrecting this thread, I couldn't remember where I got a spare set of bearings
The Fastenal link was it.
Thanks, Hoss

[SScnc]

thanks for resurrecting this thread, I couldn't remember where I got a spare set of bearings
The Fastenal link was it.
Thanks, Hoss

You bet Hoss. I spent a couple of more hours "tweaking" the preload and managed to get a compromise between bearing noise, smooth operation and heat. So it's not too bad now, the head maintains a temp of about 111*F and I expect it to get better with time. I feel like this was very much worth the effort because these type of bearings are (IMO) much better suited when you're going to run programs that take many hours or days fairly consistently and have the belt drive and you plan to keep the mill forever.

I made my own tools based on the .pdf link CR posted and it all worked very smoothly. I also did polish the upper part of the spindle so the upper bearing could slide without an extreme amount of pressure to make preloading easier, as per mchabot's suggestion.

One other thing I thought I should mention, the guy selling these kits on ebay shows the bottom seal, you guys may think I'm a bit crazy but I made this seal from a "Faberware" cutting board, I'm not sure what type of plastic it's made of but it's super tough and seems to be very heat resistant. I turned it on my 9x12 lathe and it's working fantastic so far. It looks just like the one in the ebay kit.

As for the Fastenal link, I should have bought the bearings from them, maybe they are better quality. (?) If these don't get better with time I'll find some higher quality ones and change them out.

If I have any real problems with this setup I'll post about it and maybe save someone else any problems.

[mchabot]

Hi,

Yes the noise is quite high, but it should be an "hiss" and not a rumble. The latest shows damaged races.

You can also made the bearings rectified (the P6 ref part on some bearings), it doesn't cost a lot, but I don't know if it worth it.

[SScnc]

Hi,

Yes the noise is quite high, but it should be an "hiss" and not a rumble. The latest shows damaged races.

You can also made the bearings rectified (the P6 ref part on some bearings), it doesn't cost a lot, but I don't know if it worth it.

What do you mean by rectified ?

[mchabot]

Arf, bad translation.
Grinded to acheive P6/P5 runout. This is possible on taper roller bearing because grinding the inside race only diminish overall roller width.

[Tallen]

Got my kit in and installed prior to milling the dovetails on my new Hoss X-Axis. The head was MUCH cooler after this hour and a half ordeal. His directions are excellent and the bearings top notch. It is as quiet or quieter than stock, likely due to the quality bearings he sells. Plus, I'll probably never need to do it again.

http://shop.ebay.com/lbakeland/m.htm...1&_from=&_ipg=

Add a belt drive and this mod to totally change your mill!
http://szabaga.com/x2/power/

[submicro]

Hello can any one point me to someplace I can get the lower R8 spindle bearing upgrade? meaning the taper roller bearing 35x62x14 I can't find one anywhere! the closest I've found was 35x62x18 :-(

TIA

[submicro]

Has anyone considered Angular contact bearings? or are they not very good for our application?

Robert

[hoss2006]

Has anyone considered Angular contact bearings? or are they not very good for our application?

Robert

They work great on the g0704 so they should work on the x2 as well.
Hoss

[Vogavt]

I've look through several threads on replacement bearings for the X2. I ordered accordingly for the R8 Spindle.
They are not sealed bearings though (which I was surprised when I received them.
I've read where you can put in Kluber brand grease but do I need to send these back and get a sealed a set that are sealed?

Haven't found a thread on the net yet that answers that question.

I purchased Swarfrat's video directly from him and watch on how to replace the bearings on both the mini-mill and the mini-lathe. Great video.
I also called him with a couple of questions about the drawings that he referenced and got that squared away. Nice guy.

[Vogavt]

So I got the bearings replaced today. Everything went together as planned.
I watched the video again while I was doing the replacement and picked up on something that I missed before.
Lex states in his video that over-tightening during the installation of the last bearing could cause the spindle to bind.
Well, mine is now flush with the surface as it was with the previous bearing and the spindle turns freely but when I give it a spin it only turns about half a rotation and stops.
I played that section over and over again in the video and it appears to be doing the same thing, about a quarter to half a free rotational movement.
I guess I was expecting it to spin a little longer than that, I don't know, maybe four or five rotations then come to a halt.
Anyone think I might have the "binding" situation? Like I said, it rotates smoothly, but not for long.

I might add that these are Angular Contact Bearings. Don't know what the preload was or is supposed to be. I just torqued until it felt like I didn't need to be torqued anymore.