Considering the X6-1500, but wondered if anyone knew what connectors are used for X, Y, Z and VFD from the control box (and the mate on the cables).
Considering the X6-1500, but wondered if anyone knew what connectors are used for X, Y, Z and VFD from the control box (and the mate on the cables).
that totally wasn't his question - X Y and Z axis is standard terminology.
He was asking what TYPE of connectors are used on this machine. Unfortunately I have no idea other than to say that they are 4 pin locking connectors.
I'm in the U.S. and have access to 120v and 220v in my shop. Is there any advantage in ordering the 220v version? To get the machine wired for 120v there is actually an extra $34 charge. Does input voltage have any effect on how the machine operates?
Shipping charge (Fed-X) to California is about $340 which brings the full price to around $2250.
I think if you can your better off going with 220v but I run the 120v fine in my shop for a while now with no issues.
Finally got Z's dust shoe operational! This thing is awesome!
Was working on my hall effect homing switches.... I must have wired them wrong none of them trigger with magnets on the machine. Tried one on the arduino and it worked fine. Cant wait to get that done!
Bahaha, it's strange seeing my dust shoe on someone else's machine lol.
Glad you liked the design.
Hello everyone!
I've tried my best to read and understand each post on this thread, and those on another forum, but I am still stuck on my setup, and I believe it is an issue with my plugin for Mach3.
I found a few download links, and moved the usbmove.dll into the correct folders, but still nothing is popping up right. Installing SmoothStepper prompted Mach3 to start recognizing a plugin, but so far nothing for USB.
***************
After re-installing mach3 (cracked from purchase) I am getting the popup finally saying
Welcome
Mach3 USB Motion Card
then a bit later it goes to
Movement Warning
External Movement Not Connected
Grrr was caused by not having plugin for the correct USB board, but rather ones I found from google.
Can anyone tell me how the water-cooling works?
If I set the pump up, does the water run inside the spindle, similar to a distillation column, or does the water get sprayed out near the bit?
The latter is what I had initially assumed, but the way the tubing is connected reminded me of the former. I'm such a noob at this, and have not had much help from the manual(s) I've found, or any of the videos showing anything totally clear.
After about 3 hours of cutting I found my spindle to be well to hot to safely cut, and so hoping I can get this set up.
Also zeeflyboy I have your file, and will be modding it and printing it at school soon. Very thankful for the idea and most of the files I need!
The water cooling is just for the spindle motor. If you've run it for 3 hours without cooling, you may have done damage to the bearings. There are two hose connections on top, you just put the pump in a bucket of water, run the pipe from the pump in one connection, and the return pipe just goes back into the bucket.
With the kind of materials this unit mills, you generally don't cool the cutting bit, rather you lubricate it depending on the specific material.
DaWG,
The connector nomenclature is: 4P 16mm or A4P
It is also referred to as a four pin microphone or aviation connector.
connector 4P 16mm | eBay
Jeff...
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
Thanks for your reply, Jeff. This is the USB control board mounted on my router which unfortunately for some reason it came with no software disk. I searched the internet and tried a few plugins that I have found but no one works, and the vendor slows to answer my questions. I would be grateful if you could help me. Thank you.
Attachment 247416
Attachment 247418
Hey guys
First post, but have been here for a really long time.
I have and issue with my router.
The speed are really good on the machine, I got about 8000mm/min rapids without a problem.
But now it's around 6k just because I really don't need anything higher.
The issue I have is with a really long 3d program, it's almost 200 thousand lines of code and takes around 50 minutes to run.
The program is with really high speed, it's run at 5000mm/min at all times, but it's still far from what the max speed of the machine.
When I have run the program I notice that the Y axis, (in my case the short portal axis), has drifted almost 1 to 1.5mm over the course of the program.
This is of course totally unacceptable.
The router is calibrated to within 5 thousands of a mm over a distance of 150mm, and the backlash is no more than 1 hundred of a mm.
I did the preliminary tests with an old XP PC, but changed to WIN7 64bit Which works really good.
Still the same issue.
Removed the cable to the spindle and zip tied it to the outside of the cable belt, just to eliminate disturbance from the VFD.
Still no real improvement.
What I have thought of is that the machine just isn't capable of handling these speed over a long program.
Maybe the connection between the PC and breakoutboard just isn't fast enough.
What's the highest speed you guys normally run your machines?
Any pointers and tips would be helpful, since I don't feel I can trust the machine as it is now.
Patrik
That's the same as my board. I received my package about 2 weeks ago and I've been very happy with the unit and company in general. I've not experienced any of the problems mentioned by a few others in this thread. Perhaps the company has refined its processes since their earliest shipments. First I got a link to the most comprehensive manual I've seen so far, along with the config files for Mach3, in an email when they shipped my router. Second, the manual was very useful and accurate with pictures of the physical assembly and software setup. Third, the after sales communication has been excellent. In fact they were actually chasing me to contact Australian customs when my package was held up there for 2 days and then a follow up email that I received the package and was happy with the product. I can't fault their service.
Right... now I've got that off my chest, let me see if I can post the link I got from carving CNC here. This is a link to a file download site - it's not the files themselves. I highly recommend you download the manual (it's the latest one as far as I know - and it's for the board you've got) and also the config files for Mach3. Only use the config files - cut and paste them to your Mach3 folder. DO NOT use the dodgy Mach3 exe file, it contains a virus.:nono: The config files are perfectly alright. I don't blame carving cnc for the virus in the exe file it's a third party file storage site and therefore prone to hackers. No I don't work for them so I'm not trying to defend them no matter what, it's just I've been impressed by their service so I'm giving them the benefit of positive feedback. Forget about any other files in this forum or elsewhere, they are for earlier controllers. The link I give works on my board, and it's the same as yours. Also, I am running my router on an XP (32 bit) laptop and USB 2.0 port. The manual states this is the controllers preferred setup - it's emphatic about not using USB 3.
Well, here's the promised link and hope it helps: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7-...jRZaUVYVy1Tekk
To download, move the pointer to the top of the screen and a drop down bar shows a download icon. Hit download to download all files. The zip file containing the dodgy Mach3 exe file is perfectly ok to download. It's only a problem if you try to execute it. Make sure your virus checker is turned on just in case. All the other files are ok to use. See the jpg file below for cut and paste config files into Mach3 directory. Ignore step 1 That'll give you a virus (mind you on my old XP laptop the virus was actually an improvement ). First install Mach3 from somewhere else then follow the rest of the steps.
Attachment 247430
Yeah I was pretty surprised myself when I just kept getting higher and higher on the motortuning.
Will edit the 3D program when I get home and edit everything that's 5000mm/min to about half and see what that does.
This will do for now, but it's not really acceptable for a machine with ballscrews and pretty good drivers and motors.
If it is the breakout board that's just not up to the task, then I will probably change to a Smoothstepper with RJ45 connection.
But first som more tests.
Well I tried it and got some improvement, now it was about 0,2 mm instead.
In my book this is still not very good.
It's always the same axle, Y in this case.
Is there maybe some way to improve the priority of the USB bus?
I have a friend that had issues with lost steps (on the z axis mainly I think) and it turned out that his old PC wasn't up to the task. When he upgraded to a more powerful machine he had no more problems.
Mine has always highly repeatable, even after long operations... I run rapids at 3,500mm/min.