[ihavenofish]

Thank you for finding that info. As I have no experience with a rotary axis (precious little with the primary 3), let me ask a newbie question: If I want the level of precision that we see in the videos, what is really required? Can a Chinese ebay unit with a harmonic drive, say, deliver what the parker/daedal combination did in the video? I realise there will be a difference, but at what level of precision does that difference start to show? Is precision mostly lost in the table/rotary head, or in the motor and coupling?

Thanks again
John

actually the chinese harmonic drive units (which are used japanese reduction boxes in a cheap aluminium housing) are in theory much better than the parker tables for this application as they have near zero backlash, but they are mostly very small, and not very powerful. fine for cue, not so good for large pieces. there are some larger ones that are much stronger, but they also cost a lot more.

you can also just buy a used drive box and build your own, but that requires you to have a fairly precise mill and possibly a lathe.

keep in mine that NEW these little gearboxes are extremely expensive. these chinese companies must have found a big surplus stash of used ones.

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That is really perfect. Well done!
Do you have any plans to make it in black, for better reading?

Надіслано від мого M6Pro, використовуючи Tapatalk

i dont think the guy who made the video is on this forum.

[JohninOttawa]

Thank you for this info, good intel on the relative power of the units. If you were to guess, would you place the power limitation on the motor or the gearbox? If it's the motor, how much trouble can I get into if I try to upgrade?

Thanks again

John

[wannabeee]

actually the chinese harmonic drive units (which are used japanese reduction boxes in a cheap aluminium housing) are in theory much better than the parker tables for this application as they have near zero backlash, but they are mostly very small, and not very powerful. fine for cue, not so good for large pieces. there are some larger ones that are much stronger, but they also cost a lot more.you can also just buy a used drive box and build your own, but that requires you to have a fairly precise mill and possibly a lathe.keep in mine that NEW these little gearboxes are extremely expensive. these chinese companies must have found a big surplus stash of used ones.- - - Updated - - -

i dont think the guy who made the video is on this forum.

Yes, I am on this forum.
No, I don't plan to fill the graduations with black unless visibility becomes an issue. The graduations show up very well so far.
There doesn't seem to be any appreciable backlash in the system now. I can rotate forward & backward several revolutions but when I come back to 0° - from either direction - my camera (at almost 40X magnification) shows the graduations lined up perfectly.
Yes, it's normally an expensive unit but I was fortunate enough to get it at an unbelievable price. Had this option not been made available to me, I might have gotten one of the ebay units.

[ihavenofish]

Thank you for this info, good intel on the relative power of the units. If you were to guess, would you place the power limitation on the motor or the gearbox? If it's the motor, how much trouble can I get into if I try to upgrade?

Thanks again

John

the limitation is the strength of the gearbox. they are only rated for 8-10NM constant torque some of them, which is barely more than some steppers in direct drive. they do amplify precision by 100 though and have no play though which is what makes them great.

so if you had a large workpiece, you might want something like the parker instead, and deal with the small amount of backlash it will have. parker is high end stuff, not comparable to the typical cheap worm gear rotary table.

[JohninOttawa]

Good advice. I realise that we spend all this money to get the machine set up, the best drives, all of it. But really the work is not held accurately and stable, where's the savings? Maybe better to budget and save than get something that will disappoint....

Now wannabee, tell me more about this amazing deal on a parker table. Does it have a sister :-)

Thanks again
-John

[gio666]

Some changes on Predator , same changes on Raptors.

Machined flat backing plate. On Predators only, have the one side ledge on Y plate .
Mounting flat surface for ballscrew bearing housing machined with profile pockets. Inside upright completed machined flat .
A few other changes that are same as Raptor changes

Attachment 291230 Attachment 291232

Attachment 291234 Attachment 291236

[ihavenofish]

not sure whats going on with the backing plate. are the rails raised with a channel for the ball screw? is the back plate thicker?

[gio666]

not sure whats going on with the backing plate. are the rails raised with a channel for the ball screw? is the back plate thicker?

Backing plate still one inch, Because all the machines are designed for the high end SBC rails and blocks it give a little room for adjustment for other brand of rails. So one side of rail is fixed to ledge ,other side open . Both rails will still be parallel without having to use gauge. All rails widths are same size on paper, but have a different tolerance and some longer rails had harder time seating flush with some brands
Back of plate is machined flat before machining front side of plate . All mounting surfaces for ballscrew end are also machined flat as well

[gio666]

I now have machined table top for machines. With profile I use now , I have not had a problem with table top bowing or twisting in the few I have done . When I used the 8020inc profile it was causing problems with twist in profile and not flat , as why I stopped machining top .

[JohninOttawa]

George this is good news. Any pics? Will mount be through the top, or angle supports underneath?
-John

[gio666]

George this is good news. Any pics? Will mount be through the top, or angle supports underneath?
-John

Mounting is through top. With 1/4 turn t nuts.
Here is top for Predator, it has mounting for the center supports if you have installed. Raptors only have the 4 holes ,2 on each end .Predator has 8

[JohninOttawa]

Thanks George. Just curious why you decided not to have the Raptor ones bolt into the optional centre supports. I'd imagine those additional attachments help both with flatness and overall table rigidity.

-John

[gio666]

Thanks George. Just curious why you decided not to have the Raptor ones bolt into the optional centre supports. I'd imagine those additional attachments help both with flatness and overall table rigidity.

-John

There is no drop-in 1/4 turn t nuts to fit the 10 series aluminum t slot . Only have for the 8080 profile . The drop-ins 1/4 turns you don't have to remove end frame to put on or take off

[gio666]

More very nice Vids

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tDYi-mVSf4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJ2eClK1S6s

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[gio666]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7HXhWwEPdQ

[Padovini]

Its been several years (3 actually), but I have been using my Original ViperX, and its been working well. I see the design has changed some. I was in the process of researching how to stretch my X direction cutting length. George originally sent me longer rails and ball screws to test, but it had too much side to side wobble. Just this past week I started looking into using supported rails to take it out to a 48" cutting length. It looks like the new designs are using this method already. Is there a way that I can purchase the equipment to lengthen my current machine please?

Thank you, Brian P.

Attachment 293146

[gio666]

Its been several years (3 actually), but I have been using my Original ViperX, and its been working well. I see the design has changed some. I was in the process of researching how to stretch my X direction cutting length. George originally sent me longer rails and ball screws to test, but it had too much side to side wobble. Just this past week I started looking into using supported rails to take it out to a 48" cutting length. It looks like the new designs are using this method already. Is there a way that I can purchase the equipment to lengthen my current machine please?

Thank you, Brian P.

Attachment 293146

Hi Brian, there really is no easy way to change from round rails to profile rails on that machine. Cost would be more than Mini Raptor

[Padovini]

Hi Brian, there really is no easy way to change from round rails to profile rails on that machine. Cost would be more than Mini Raptor

I am sorry to hear that George. I will just go back to my original plan of sourcing my own components, and modifying it myself. I have full access to a machine shop after work hours, so my only cost will be in materials. Initial estimates are showing under $600 for what I need. That's a long way from the cost of a mini Raptor.

Brian P.

[gio666]

I am sorry to hear that George. I will just go back to my original plan of sourcing my own components, and modifying it myself. I have full access to a machine shop after work hours, so my only cost will be in materials. Initial estimates are showing under $600 for what I need. That's a long way from the cost of a mini Raptor.

Brian P.

Hi Brian , I wouldn't use supported rails, use profile rails.
You can make an adaptor to mount blocks to uprights and profiles on long axis .

[Padovini]

I signed up on your forum to see your machine pictures there, but can't until you approve me please.

Brian P.