[Greolt]

Sage

Need to have the zero macro in the macro folder.

Copy the macro to a text (notepad) file and call it M615.m1s or some number not in use. Place this in the macro folder with the name of your profile (Mach3mill)

Then use the number 615 in the shuttle config. It is that easy.

Also what you should do is use this code for the on screen button. Code "M615"

Greg

[dsage]

Ok so following your instructions and for the benefit of others:

I found the macro for the on-screen button tool setter was called
"hidenscript.m1s" and is kept in the c:\mach3\macros\mach3mill directory.
I found that out by editing the on screen button (operator\edit button script). The name is at the top the editing window.

I copied that macro file and renamed the copy M620.m1s (noting that that macro file number 620 was not used.)

I went into the config screen in mach selected "config plugins" and selected the shuttle pro for configuration. I found the button I wanted to program and assigned it "macro #1" from the pulldown.

In the box for macro#1 on the same screen (right side middle) I entered 620 and pressed ok.

Bob's your uncle as they say. The chosen button on the shuttle pro now operates the tool setter just like the one on the screen.


Man, that was easy.

Thanks

Sage

[johyn]

Hello, have been following this for a while and wanted to put my thoughts in for those that might want another option.
I chose to use the button edit and asign my code to the unused tool zero button. This was not as pretty as some of the screen edit types but not as cumbersome as using the screen 4 utility... ( more time spent with actually using my machine) , John

[steelestimating]

I would have to agree (and have already stated) that the macro needs to save the current conditions for those Items it intends to use, set them to appropriate values, execute it's function and then put the conditions back where it found them. I do a lot of micro processor programming and this is standard programming procedure for an interrupt procedure (to push and pop the stack), which is essentially what you have here

I agree it might have gotten screwed up by killing a program mid stream. But who's to say the tool setter can't be used after stopping a program. I do a lot of dry runs on programs with the cutter retracted to be sure they work properly for the first (of many passes) then stop the program and reset the axis to start again. I don't think that's unreasonable.

Maybe someone can suggest a way to press a button to reset all of stuff to safe values.

I guess I could put some pre-amble at the beginning of every program to do that initializing, then have an M1 to pause the program for a manual Z-axis calibration before continuing.


Sage

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[chrisb691]

I got the touch plate working tonight, after some initial problems. At first I had to hard-code the plate thickness in, to get it to work. Then I re-read all the posts on this thread, and found the solution in post 134, where Rod explained about hitting enter to make the DRO setting stick.

So, many thanks to Greg for the screen, and the explanations in various posts. Also thanks to Rod, who saved me a quantity of hair.

Now looking on ebay for a laser cross pointer, so I can do Greg's x y zero trick.

[tpworks]

Looking for a laser cross?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5982

[Greolt]

I got this one, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5942

It focused to a good line. Though I do think that it is a bit hit and miss at this price point.

Also bought a more expensive one that was useless. Poor focus.

Greg

[chrisb691]

Thanks Greg. I picked that up from one of your earlier posts, and odered a couple of them.

Chris

[dsage]

I think I stumbled on the problem with the tool setter jamming itself into the work piece instead of retracting.
I was doing some moving around manually and had set G91 using the manual code entry line. I used the tool setter and it jammed itself into the part. I put it back to G90 and it was fine again.
I guess it makes sense this would screw it up so I'm thinking I should change the tool setter button code to include the statement:

Code "G90"

at the beginning.

Granted this will screw up your operation if you needed G91 set but I don't usually use G91 unless I'm playing around manually and any good code should set it properly.

So the question is: Will this work? I haven't done it yet.

I haven't ruled out something else also causing this problem but at least this one I think I've proven (unless I got mis-led somehow)

Sage

[sailfl]

It is clear that some thing is wrong. I can not get my zero touch plate to work correctly.

First let me explain what I am doing. I am not using the Mach3 screens. I have a touch plate with a small LED light attached. When things are working correctly, I will test that I have a complete circuit by touch the plate to the bit. If the light turns on, I will know that I can run the macro with out the fear of driving the bit through the table. I will use my Shuttle Pro to run the macro.

I have used the code off of this thread. I even got some code from the Mach3 forum but that did not work either. When I touch the plate, I see on the Mach3 Diagnostic page that I have a closed circuit. When I run the macro the bit touches the plate and the light lights but the router continues to drive down. It is not stopping. I think you should be able to hold the plate in the air and touch the bit once the macro is running and it should work.

How do I get this to work? Do you need additional information? Do I need to add a pull up resistor?

Thanks for helping.

[Jay C]

Guys this might have already been answered/settled but it's been a while since I visited this thread so apologies if so. The CNC4PC C10 BOB that I use has 10Kohm pull-down resistors on all pins. The touch probe works by connecting the input to ground (active low). Since the pin is already pulled down to low, one simply needs to pull up the input pin with a smaller resistor creating a voltage divider. For my touch probe I uses a 1Kohm resistor from Vcc (5V) to the input pin. I also found it necessary to add some bypass capacitors (.1uF tantalums) due to noise.

Edit: By adding the 1Kohm resistor in series with the 10Kohm resistor there is a constant current of .5mA and the input pin will see 4.5V (ideally). When the probe touches the grounded plate 5/1000 or 5mA will flow through the 1Kohm resistor.

The photo show my probe box (an RS project box and a plug in connector from the junk bin). The gray wire at the top of the photo goes to the DB9 serial connector and ultimately to the input pins and Vcc and GND pins on the C10). The bigger yellow and black wires go to my probe (used some wires off a dead PC power supply but there in no real need to use this big of a gauge, 22AWG is fine). The servo connector connects to my photo limit switch (seen on the right hand of the photo. (I can post the schematic/brd/and gcode if you would like it). Like I said, to prevent noise from giving false triggers I added a bypass cap both across the Vcc and GND, and from the probe in to ground (effectively this places it parallel to the 10K pull-down resistor).

FWIW,
Jay

[sailfl]

My problem was resolved when I used the Probe input in Ports and Pins configuration. Now, as soon as the bit touches the plate it waits a short period and retracts. I had the wrong input set up.

[ger21]

I'm gonna make this thread sticky.

[john_t_h]

Instead of the LED being assigned to probe (I assume 825 is probe). I want to assign it to OEM trigger in the mach 3 ports and pins config. I have my digital probe already set up and the high low settings are different to the z plate.

How do I do this?

[MICA]

Question:
Rather creating a UserDRO(1152), couldn't you use OEMDRO(1001) which is already on the offsets page (ie the Gage Block Height DRO) ?

[ozzie34231]

Mica,
I think that will work and I think a lot of this probe interface could be integrated in that page.
Ozzie

[dneisler]

I just read this thread the past few days, and decided to make one since I am making lots of took changes in current projects.

It works fine with mach3, and my C11 BOB...BUT.....it is not accurate. It seems to vary about .030" each time. I did have to use 2 - 4.7k resistors to get it work with my mill setup.

any Ideas?

[sailfl]

Donald,

I had some trouble with my Zero Touch Plate macro also when I had the Z move upward after the bit touched the plate. I found that when it was an inch, it was not accurate so I changed the upward distance to .8 of an inch and it has been accurate.

What distance do you have it move upward?

[dneisler]

Donald,

I had some trouble with my Zero Touch Plate macro also when I had the Z move upward after the bit touched the plate. I found that when it was an inch, it was not accurate so I changed the upward distance to .8 of an inch and it has been accurate.

What distance do you have it move upward?

I have it set to retract a 1/4" only.

[Greolt]

Whether retract distance is set to 1mm or 200mm or 0.1" or 10" should make no difference at all to the accuracy.

All the height setting is done and finished before it retracts.

If you are adjusting the retract height to get accuracy then you have some other issues going on.

Better to track them down.

Greg