[MyCattMaxx]

mkc2, Nice build. I see you improved you design. Changing from skate bearings was costly but I am sure your accuracy is much better now. I like the steel frame...Sturdier than MDF.

Ernie34, If you can afford make sure you use a sturdy frame. I have a cheapo I bought from fleabay that I bought to give to my 15 year old nephew. It is so bad I will double the cost in parts to cut down on all the flex it has. I will soon post a thread on my findings. But I got it for $400 and the electronics on it would cost me $300...;-)

[Ernie34]

I am going to build the frame very similar using welded steel tube (square). The design part is really the most difficult. I keep reading and getting different ideas. This forum has been a BIG help so far and all you guys have given me alot of information!

Keep up all the good work (I'll be watching and learning!!!)


Thanks!


Ernie

[Action-KAT]

Hi Michael
Lov the build you've done nice and professional job, I've just started my build so looking for inspiraton to keep me going.

going down the steel route myself not as good as yours but my first bash.

would you be kind enough to give us a more indepth look at your computer stand setup and how the electrics are wired & what functions ect
looks very interesting not come across this before might to at doing something like that at a later stage on my build.


KAT

[mkc2]

Hi kat

The control stand is very simple, computer switch on, power led and hard drive led wires run all the way to the motherboard.
The cnc switch, power on run to a relay on the driver board and the spindle on light also runs to a relay, estop button runs to the interface card,
Then you just have your keyboard, mouse and a usb hub mounted on the stand.

Hope this helps

Cheers Michael

[Action-KAT]

cheers Michael

simpler than I first thought, like the idea of a stand alone unit for input I can now see the cables connecting to the PC.
I will have to give this some planning maybe incorporating it into the front of the steel frame!

I do like the graphics you produced very simple way & makes the whole thing look very professional ( & that's coming from a sign maker by trade )
Thanks again for the input
KAT

[mkc2]

Hi all
drilled and taped table top for the 3/8 clamp kit, just need to make a new dust boot.

cheers michael

[mkc2]

Hi guys a few more undates

Got a tread mill motor and controller given to me so I thought it's time for a new spindle with less noise then the 240v router.
ER25 collet, 1.5hp motor, 9500 RPM at the spindle all came out well excepted a bit of noise from the belts but still way less noise then before, will change pulleys and belts to V soon, very pleased with out come

cheers Michael


[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uG3alxTFfi8"]YouTube- new spindle test.AVI[/nomedia]

[myxo]

awesome machine.

how did you cut aluminum you used for the spindle carrier(not sure if thats the right term?) . Did you use a mill or a router?

Can you expound a little on how the treadmill motor works as a router?

Thanks

[mkc2]

Hi myxo

spindle clamps were cut from this router, tread mill motor runs a 60t pulley across to a 24t idler pulley then back across to the spindle which is a ER25 straight chuck holder, motor is controlled by a dc speed controller.

[myxo]

Hi mkc2,
thanks for the explanation.

Is there a mechanical reason why you switched from router to treadmill motor ie. is the treadmill motor far more superior than the router ie more cutting torque (excuse the layman terms) . I am very interested in seeing how this turns out.

I am thinking of building a cnc router, but I would like to be able to cut maybe 1" thick aluminum in addition to wood and plastic . So far , my research seems to point to this being difficult,(most say get a mill) hence the reason why I am intrigued by your design and the ability to cut that thick aluminum on your router.

I would love to see it in motion doing some cuts.

Well done.

[mkc2]

Hi myxo

The reason for this setup was to cut the noise level down, I can cut 25mm plate ali but the noise is to much when cutting for hours, not like my brothers x2 mill you can stand next to it with no ear plugs all day !! and they use the same setup I have now with less RPM.
The other reason was collet size, my router only takes 1/4'' shank, The new spindle ER25 collect takes 1-16mm mill bits.

cheers Michael

[myxo]

Aah , I see. Thanks ,definitely something to consider when I start building.
I appreciate the way you explain the reasoning behind your choices. Sort of gives us the pros and cons of each choice.

Cheers

[gotis]

Hello,
Excellent build, could you please tell me the specs on that motor?

Looking for a replacement to my treadmill motor that´s toasting the brushes.

[mkc2]

Hi Gotis

Motor spec's 180 vdc, 1.5HP, 4000 RPM

hope this helps

cheers Michael

[myxo]

Hi Michael,

Is this machine mainly for metalmilling ? I ask because of the rpm of the motor. How does it work as a wood /plastic router?
I think I read (maybe erroneously?)somewhere that the slower rpms are ideal for metal and higher rpms of routers (eg 20000rpm) are suitable for wood etc. Or doesn't it matter? Is it just a question of how quickly it would mill wood or would it affect how smoothly the wood is milled? Is it more torque vs rpms?

Can you actually vary the speed of the motor per application? via software or would it have to be manual.

with your gearing of 60t:24t (I gues it works out to 2.5:1) does that mean you can vary the speed to say 1200rpm?

Would an aluminum base have worked for your build or would it have been too light leading to vibrations?

Please pardon all my ignorant questions..as you can see I have loads of them.
I am trying hard to understand the whole thing so I dont make some silly mistakes when I try to build a cnc router.

cheers

[gotis]

Yes it does, and how long is it? (total)

[mkc2]

Hi myxo

My router would mainly do aluminium work, If I was to cut wood it would be at a slower feed rate and would'nt do any steel as its not ridgit enough.
steel frame work is cheaper then aluminium but will warp when welding, You can use anything as there are aslo MDF routers out there but it all comes down to how much money you want to spend.
My speed rate can vary from 200-9500 rpm with a knob but will connect it to mach3 down the track.

cheers michael

[mkc2]

Hi gotis

motor is 250mm in total lenght and 82mm diameter.


Michael

[myxo]

Thanks Michael

Glad to know I don't have go with a dedicated mill to work with aluminum.
I keep coming back to look at the pictures and rereading different portions of the thread.This is really inspirational.
Thanks for sharing

cheers

[Mullet]

Michael this documented journey is excellent. You clearly have a grasp ofsteel fabrication (and access to range of materials). Well done.

I've found this thread while researching options for my own Mark 2 build needing a stronger machine for quicker aluminum milling and engraving (most audio 19" racks) and your bearing change and use of steel is what got me here. Very cool work you've done!

Thanks very much for making the effort to share your journey and cheers from Adelaide!
Mick