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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking > MetalWork Discussion > Drill bits for Stainless Steel
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  1. #1
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    Drill bits for Stainless Steel

    I need to get information of the comapnies that sells best quality drills for drilling Stainless and other exotic materials.. I am looking after the drills that have removable insert tips..
    Any help will be highly appreciated
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  2. #2
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    Try These.

    I know of them but have not used them. Other iscar products I use a quite good.
    http://www.iscar.com.au/ProductLines...neDetailID/326
    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by neilw20 View Post
    I know of them but have not used them. Other iscar products I use a quite good.
    http://www.iscar.com.au/ProductLines...neDetailID/326
    I'll second that recommendation. The Cham drills from Iscar are a real nice product. I've used them in different insert grades in 17-4 and 18-8 stainless as well as ductile and gray iron. Have a titanium job coming up I ordered some tips for as well. We ran them production in the last shop I was at and I figured the tool cost, without resharpening and re-coating, as $.068 per hole which compared to $.12 per hole for Sandvick Delta drills (brazed on coated) and $.28 for regular brazed on carbide tipped drills. The speeds and feeds are pretty high and surface finishes are nice. I also like the fact you can get them in 8X the dia for deep hole drilling or if you need to reach through a void and drill inline.
    Suppose you were an idiot and suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself.
    Mark Twain

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    I need to get information of the comapnies that sells best quality drills for drilling Stainless and other exotic materials.. I am looking after the drills that have removable insert tips..
    Any help will be highly appreciated

    I recall you mentioning in the past that you had a problem with run out , if your going to use carbides then your going to need to be sure to have your drill running dead center or you'll greatly reduce the tool life
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  5. #5
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    Thank You Neil, Shotout and Curt for your feedback.. I have seen the website and its really interesting... I have also searched another website
    http://www.sumicarbide.com/whatsnew_products.htm
    Curt.. Actually these drills will be used on the Radial drill Machine (Novisa and Bergonzi)... These machines are from Italian origin and having very good quality in all respect...

    We currently using drills from Dormer and Presto but i think there is something quality issues.. May be their are some more companies copying and making cheap drills with their name..
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Thank You Neil, Shotout and Curt for your feedback.. I have seen the website and its really interesting... I have also searched another website
    http://www.sumicarbide.com/whatsnew_products.htm
    Curt.. Actually these drills will be used on the Radial drill Machine (Novisa and Bergonzi)... These machines are from Italian origin and having very good quality in all respect...

    We currently using drills from Dormer and Presto but i think there is something quality issues.. May be their are some more companies copying and making cheap drills with their name..
    I tested the Sumitomo drills and found them lacking in these respects:
    1. Tool life. I ran the normal Iscar drill on the left hand part and the Sumi drill on the right hand mirror image part. I had to dig it up but the Sumi drill failed @ 1890 dia17.5mm thru holes (48-49mm thick boss). I changed the tip as per schedule on the Iscar drill @ 2160 holes without tool body loss. As it was a head to head test and the speed feed ranges compared they where both run at the same speed and feed.
    2. Ease of insert replacement when compared to Cham drills. The Iscar system uses a hand tool to simply twist and release;lock rather than screws.
    3. Cost. Bodies where about $30 USD more and tips about $5 USD more.
    4. Availability of product. This was over a year and half ago but it wasn't as good as Iscar and could have resulted in lost production time. Now this was in the grades we used on cast iron but based on the website info "Other tips specifically for cast iron, stainless steel and exotic materials are also available upon request" say to me that probably hasn't changed. These are stock items with Iscar.

    Now hole size was in the same tolerance range between both drills and the surface finish was comparable. This was all in ductile iron too so the test data differences for stainless might not be as pronounced.
    Suppose you were an idiot and suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself.
    Mark Twain

  7. #7
    I've always had good results from kennametal drills ,and its fairly cheap to get the inserts resharpened and recoated , just be sure to have sufficient coolant , because you will generate a lot of heat and once some of these stainless steels and many of the exotics get work hardened then your in for a nightmare
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    .... Actually these drills will be used on the Radial drill Machine (Novisa and Bergonzi)... These machines are from Italian origin and having very good quality in all respect.....(
    I am dubious about using insert drills on a Radial Drill.

    Radial drills are very stiff vertically but not radially and they rely on the self-centering action of a conventional drill bit. It is possible that an insert drill would try to "walk around" because they are not self-centering.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  9. #9
    single insert drills are self centering but won't like any amount of movement (play)
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geof View Post
    I am dubious about using insert drills on a Radial Drill.

    Radial drills are very stiff vertically but not radially and they rely on the self-centering action of a conventional drill bit. It is possible that an insert drill would try to "walk around" because they are not self-centering.
    Thats the reason, we will first centre drill by using ordinary drill/ or by using the centre drill inserts.. You can say it a pilot drill.. I have seen some inserts too that having both in one drill...

    Our radial drills having locking actions against radial movement...
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  11. #11
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    The attached drilling job was done manually on NOVISA radial drill... May I ask a question, is it possible to CNC the radial drill...
    I am thinking to make a movable bed for it ..the other possibility is to make the ARM movable against its centre axis...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC04658.JPG   DSC04660.JPG  
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Thats the reason, we will first centre drill by using ordinary drill/ or by using the centre drill inserts.. You can say it a pilot drill.. I have seen some inserts too that having both in one drill...

    Our radial drills having locking actions against radial movement...

    you can get the flat bottom drills with the centering insert but you will probably destroy it on a radial drill , if you choose to use the single insert carbide drill then you can not center drill or predrill or the tool will fail as well
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dertsap View Post
    you can get the flat bottom drills with the centering insert but you will probably destroy it on a radial drill , if you choose to use the single insert carbide drill then you can not center drill or predrill or the tool will fail as well
    Hi Curt,
    What should i do then using these drills?... Any technique or any suggestion? Can you make me a favour, identifying the right drill in the ranges of 10mm upto 20mm...
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  14. #14
    if you can provide rigid enough conditions with zero play and be able to dial the tool in dead nuts then you can use something like this for the larger diameters http://www.kennametal.com/e-catalog/...y%3A6972&logo=
    and altin coated solid carbide for the smaller diameters , but since most drilling machines do provide a bit of play even if it is minimal then you'll need to determine whether these can work or not , you'll be doing some expensive experimenting

    chances are your probably going to be best off with cobalt drills which can handle a fair bit of abuse and are cheap


    .
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  15. #15
    oh ya
    Mitsubishi also sells a brazed carbide that is an excellent and durable tool
    i'll drop a link if i can find one

    EDIT

    check out the BRS
    http://www.mitsubishicarbide.net/EU/...ing_list01.jsp
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  16. #16
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    Thanks for posting the valuable link... If the normal HSS drill work on the same machine very well, then why not the carbide tip work?
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  17. #17
    carbide is far more brittle and will chip if they are forced to run off center in anyway where as hss will wander a good way before it breaks
    from my experience the mitsubishi would be the wisest choice if you chose to go with carbide , they can with stand a fair bit of punishment , also they have a lot of carbide on the tips so they can be sent back and resharpened a good few times before they are toasted ,
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  18. #18
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    I am drilling holes with following specifications:
    PROGRAMMING GCODE in METRIC
    Material: SS316
    Material thickness: 30mm
    Drill Material: Carbide
    Drill Dia: 8mm
    Drill Depth: 34mm
    Spindle Speed: 800RPM
    Feed: 1.37 IPM
    Peck Drilling Cycle: G73 with 3mm per peck upto 34mm deep
    One hole took: 2Minutes
    Drill broke on 25th hole.

    G00 Z10.0000
    G73 X55.8259 Y-96.9950 Z-34. R2.5 F35.0 Q3.
    G80
    G00 Z10.0000
    G73 X41.8259 Y-96.9950 Z-34. R2.5 F35.0 Q3.
    G80
    G00 Z10.0000
    G73 X27.8258 Y-96.9950 Z-34. R2.5 F35.0 Q3.
    G80


    You can see the Chip.. Are these chips right?...Any suggestion?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails drill chip.JPG   DSC05207.JPG   visualMill.JPG  
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

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