[hoss2006]

Just found some tormach models so that will be the next one for comparison.
Hoss

[bjm323]

I just got one of these touchscreens. Has anyone had a problem with unzipping the driver download? I keep getting a window popping up about the files being encrypted.

[hoss2006]

I just downloaded it again and it still works fine here.
Make sure it fully downloaded, zip is 33.1 megs.
Hoss

[bjm323]

Thanks hoss. I just downloaded it again, unzipped it with peazip, and it was fine. :cheers:

[Titaniumboy]

TB, you ever get your touchscreen apart and cleaned? Get the touch portion working?
I had to follow Hoss's lead as well and just got mine in. It's heavy duty that's for sure.
Richard

I haven't got the touch portion working, but I haven't really tried since posting about it.

I did get the touchscreen apart and cleaned. Take out the two tiny screws (one top and one bottom) holding the bezel in place. Then there are four larger screws holding the bezel, two on the right and two on the left. Once these six screws are out, then the bezel (and outer screen) are free to be removed; just be careful of the thin ribbon cable. I was able to clean off the back side of the screen, but it was a little tough. Every time I wiped it down with a paper towel, and then later old t-shirts, it seemed I would end up with almost as many particles on the screen as before. Eventually I got it cleaned up OK. It won't be too hard to go in again and clean if needed in the future.

The only other problem is that the ribbon cable seemed to want to slide in only part way when putting everything back together. I eventually removed four screws from the monitor back so I could see why the ribbon cable wasn't behaving. This let me lift the inner screen up enough and see what was what. It then became clear on where to stuff the ribbon cable so that everything closed up nicely.

Titaniumboy

[rwskinner]

Cool, thanks. I had already removed the upper and lower screws and mine was already missing the 4 side screws but I tried removing the bezel and it didn't budge then I got busy on something else so I put the screws back in. I will attempt it again later. I should have my pole mount VESA arm in tomorrow for it.

Richard

[Titaniumboy]

I have started milling the G0704 X-axis stepper mount and have a couple of questions:

1. Are the two .256" diameter holes critical in size and/or placement? Are the two holes just used as guides to hand drill corresponding holes in the table size plates?
2. I started with 1/2" thick stock whereas the plans show 3/8" thick stock. Can I leave at 1/2" thick, or should I go ahead and mill down to 3/8" thick?


On the Y-axis spacer:

1. What is the criticality of the .250" diameter holes?
2. I think the 1.024" diameter is for bearings. How should this 1.024" hole fit the bearing? Loose? Sliding fit? Light press fit? Should I wait on milling this feature until I have the bearings in hand?
3. I know how to get a flat bottom on the bearing housing if I machine this feature on a lathe. Not so sure how to get a flat bottom if using a boring head on a mill?

Any other things I should be aware of on these two parts?

Thanks!

Titaniumboy

[hoss2006]

I have started milling the G0704 X-axis stepper mount and have a couple of questions:

1. Are the two .256" diameter holes critical in size and/or placement? Are the two holes just used as guides to hand drill corresponding holes in the table size plates?
2. I started with 1/2" thick stock whereas the plans show 3/8" thick stock. Can I leave at 1/2" thick, or should I go ahead and mill down to 3/8" thick?


On the Y-axis spacer:

1. What is the criticality of the .250" diameter holes?
2. I think the 1.024" diameter is for bearings. How should this 1.024" hole fit the bearing? Loose? Sliding fit? Light press fit? Should I wait on milling this feature until I have the bearings in hand?
3. I know how to get a flat bottom on the bearing housing if I machine this feature on a lathe. Not so sure how to get a flat bottom if using a boring head on a mill?

Any other things I should be aware of on these two parts?

Thanks!

Titaniumboy

x axis,
1. right, the holes aren't critical. .256 is standard for 1/4 socket screws, you can make them to fit whatever screws you wish as you noted you'll drill and tap for them in the endcap.
2. 1/2" is fine if you then take 1/8 off the length of the standoffs.

y axis,
1. the holes can be larger just like on the x axis, just for mounting to the base, stock holes are for M6 screws but can be tapped out for 1/4-20.
2. the bearings should be slip fit, the 26mm bearings are technically 1.0236 dia. could go to 1.025 bore and be fine.
3.You can rough out the bore with an endmill and finish with the boring head with the cutter pretty close to flat on the bottom.
I actually bored mine on a lathe with a 4-jaw chuck.
Hoss

[ncseceng]

I've finally completed my phase 1 conversion and have everything (well almost) up and running. Once I got the steppers dialed in I decided to give a go at some 3D milling.

First I need to say a big thanks to Hoss for making the plans and keeping a ton of helpful information in this thread, it made this project super easy.

Right now I'm still running everything stock (screws, motor and spindle bearings). The only thing I've done is added the motor mounts and the stepper motors.

Here are a few images of the results from my first run. It was done in some homemade machinable wax and this batch had some marbling going on so it's not the best results but hopefully you will get the idea.

The carving it approx 3.5 x 5.5 and the finish pass was done with a 0.0625 ball nose end mill with a step over of 0.0063 running at 2400 RPM with a feed/speed of 60 ipm.

As soon as my stock arrives I'll do the same job in some .5 6061 flat stock.

Thanks,
Phil

[hoss2006]

That looks great Phil!
Excellent detail.
Now all you need is a belt drive upgrade.
Hoss

[maker of things]

Speaking of belt drive upgrade, 100 and some odd posts ago you indicated to fastest1 that you liked the 1.1kw bf30 motor over the treadmill motor due to lower power consumption. I am trying to plan ahead for the inevitable failure of the the 600watt motor. Since the 1.1 comes from the same place as the 600 would you see it being equally prone to failure, or is the failure of the 600watt base on it being under spec'd for the machine? What are the odds that the 750 watt motor from Quality Machine/Precision Mathews is a different motor than the one that comes on the grizz?
I would prefer to keep with less power consumption and would do the belt drive conversion only to eliminate the gears that would also fail once powered by a higher torque motor. I wouldn't mind keeping the stock controller if possible for now.
I am machining steel so I don't think I would see much benefit from higher rpms.

[hoss2006]

Speaking of belt drive upgrade, 100 and some odd posts ago you indicated to fastest1 that you liked the 1.1kw bf30 motor over the treadmill motor due to lower power consumption. I am trying to plan ahead for the inevitable failure of the the 600watt motor. Since the 1.1 comes from the same place as the 600 would you see it being equally prone to failure, or is the failure of the 600watt base on it being under spec'd for the machine? What are the odds that the 750 watt motor from Quality Machine/Precision Mathews is a different motor than the one that comes on the grizz?
I would prefer to keep with less power consumption and would do the belt drive conversion only to eliminate the gears that would also fail once powered by a higher torque motor. I wouldn't mind keeping the stock controller if possible for now.
I am machining steel so I don't think I would see much benefit from higher rpms.

The 1100 watt motor I got was from Weiss, who knows where grizzly gets their motors from, they had to change suppliers over the years.
The 600 watt from my g0704 worked great for a couple years and still would if I use it for something else.
Don't think the problems were anything due to size but quality of manufacture going down with the huge increase in demand.
The motors they are shipping now look like the motors that were on the pm25.
The stock controller only outputs 10 amps so won't do well with the 1100 or a treadmill motor, I think it was part of the problem with the motors.
If you are running the stock gear train there's no point in going for more power since the plastic gears wouldn't last long.
Hoss

[Fastest1]

Phil, that 3D was nice. Was this your first time using CNC? If so, I quit.

[maker of things]

The 1100 watt motor I got was from Weiss, who knows where grizzly gets their motors from, they had to change suppliers over the years.
The 600 watt from my g0704 worked great for a couple years and still would if I use it for something else.
Don't think the problems were anything due to size but quality of manufacture going down with the huge increase in demand.
The motors they are shipping now look like the motors that were on the pm25.
The stock controller only outputs 10 amps so won't do well with the 1100 or a treadmill motor, I think it was part of the problem with the motors.
If you are running the stock gear train there's no point in going for more power since the plastic gears wouldn't last long.
Hoss

From chasing after links strung throughout this thread, it looks like Weiss makes the machines that PM and Grizzly sell. IIRC Weiss referred fastest1 to Quality machine which their website links to PM and PM's website has quality machine in the upper corner.
My machine is still running but it stalls easily plunging a brand new 4 flute cutter at anything faster than about .5ipm I usually plunge at .25 ipm. I also had it stall cutting a .39 slot when using the wizards I bought from Artsoft. It made the slot .375 x 3" to .19 deep with no problems, but then wizard had a g00y.008 at the full .19 deep and it totally stopped the cutter, by the time I got to the machine, some of the magic smoke was escaping. After I let the motor cool off I fired it up and it ran with no noticeable problems. I am going to try your torque mod as a last ditch, but have resigned to doing a motor upgrade.
Lengthy story short, sounds like I need to gather up some $$ and order your belt drive mod dvd, a controller and a motor. I'd like to do the mod while I can use the mill to make the replacement parts.

[hoss2006]

Sounds like a plan.
Note, Matt at PM insists that they do get their machines from Weiss now and that Grizzly doesn't.
Precision Mathews and Quality Machine are one and the same.
Hoss

[ncseceng]

That looks great Phil!
Excellent detail.
Now all you need is a belt drive upgrade.
Hoss

That's one of the many upgrades planned for this great mill.

[ncseceng]

Phil, that 3D was nice. Was this your first time using CNC? If so, I quit.

Yea, the dragon was the second thing I did. This was actually the first thing done to check my measurements.

You can't quit! I'm still trying to go through all of the great information you have posted. I have so much to learn from guys like you & Hoss.

-Phil

[Titaniumboy]

x axis,
1. right, the holes aren't critical. .256 is standard for 1/4 socket screws, you can make them to fit whatever screws you wish as you noted you'll drill and tap for them in the endcap.
2. 1/2" is fine if you then take 1/8 off the length of the standoffs.

y axis,
1. the holes can be larger just like on the x axis, just for mounting to the base, stock holes are for M6 screws but can be tapped out for 1/4-20.
2. the bearings should be slip fit, the 26mm bearings are technically 1.0236 dia. could go to 1.025 bore and be fine.
3.You can rough out the bore with an endmill and finish with the boring head with the cutter pretty close to flat on the bottom.
I actually bored mine on a lathe with a 4-jaw chuck.

Hoss,

Thanks for the help! I finished up most of the X-axis stepper mount on Tuesday and I just have to enlarge the .75" diameter hole I milled with an endmill up to the 1.024" diameter needed.

[Fastest1]

Yea, the dragon was the second thing I did. This was actually the first thing done to check my measurements.

You can't quit! I'm still trying to go through all of the great information you have posted. I have so much to learn from guys like you & Hoss.

-Phil

I ain't quitting. Same thing I tell my guitar teacher, but I keep showing up. Same for here ;-)

[hoss2006]

And now we can see the famous Tormach 1100 in comparison, it is much more massive than I was expecting, all they need is to get a longer table.
Hoss

G0704 Scale Model vs Tormach 1100 - YouTube