[ViperTX]

Maybe with the y motor flipped around and a shorter belt with a guard. Don't see the z axis....

[balsaman]

I got it home and yeah, the z axis is an issue. I may have to go with the Jeff Davis thing with a smaller z-axis motor....The above link shows an other option. Not quite as clean as Jeff's tho.

BTW, that this was heavy!

Eric

[HomeCNC]

You will like the weight when you start using it. A drill-mill is not a bad machine for the price!

[balsaman]

Encoders came today. The E4 series from USDigital. 250 Cpr. Very tiny. here is a pic.

Eric

[balsaman]

Hey Jeff, did you loose any of your x travel with your conversion? I might loose a couple inches.

Eric

[HomeCNC]

Hey Jeff, did you loose any of your x travel with your conversion? I might loose a couple inches.

Eric

Yes I think it was only a few inchs as well. Why did you go with the E4 encoder? I use the E2.

[balsaman]

It was 10 bucks less. I bought the 6' cables with it. It should be fine. Very small tho.

Eric

[ViperTX]

I've got the E2 encoder from US Digital for my servos....I'm suppose to build my supply this weekend (toroid based)....got all the parts except the chassis....

[balsaman]

Here is the mill. Needs a good cleaning.

Eric

[Bubba]

Balsaman,
NOW THE FUN BEGINS:})
Yours looks exactly like the one I did, even down to the puky green color!

I have PMd you regarding your request, but realize I also have additional information for all axes and our servo motors are pratically identical also! Don't worry about the loss of the X handwheel, as you won't need it except to make the parts for your new cnc.

I would also suggest putting some "weight" in the stand as I have read this helps with the vibration that occurs and makes it much more steady.

Good luck and keep similing as there are days that will seem like crap:{(

Bubba

[balsaman]

Actually there was the power feed unit there. Anyone looking for a power feed for one of these?

I took the power feed off to take some measurements for where to bolt stuff for the x axis servo motor assy. The mill came with the hand wheel as well. Also a whole big toolbox full of tooling (maybe 50 endmills, clamping set, collets, drill chucks and a nice adjustable boring tool etc etc.)

[trubleshtr]

Balsaman, Does this look familiar? (Ametek dc 50v servos) I bought these back in march from ebay, I think I may have proper info on them, I'll try and dig it out if you like?

[balsaman]

tublshtr,

Mine are part number 116150-02. Similar but different I believe.

Thanks anyways

Eric

[trubleshtr]

Balsaman,
you are right my part # is 116870-01, 50vdc @36/amps and 2000 uf needed/amp.

[noid]

Re: power feed.
I'd be interested in the powerfeed. I'm planning to purchase a drill mill like that and would need a power feed for it but I'm unsure if the power feed will fit. I plan to buy the one you mentioned in an earlier thread from busybee.

[balsaman]

I will PM you with details.

Eric

[ViperTX]

Balsaman,
you are right my part # is 116870-01, 50vdc @36/amps and 2000 uf needed/amp.

Are you sure they are 36 amp units?

[trubleshtr]

Oops, sorry , you are right, I was looking at my Total needed amperage for driving 3 of these servos......

[balsaman]

Well, today I made the bearing blocks for the x and y. made from 1" thick aluminium. Drilled on my mill, then the bearing hole bored to the right size on my lathe with a boring bar. There is a lip in the center on which the two timkin tapered roller bearings sit. This will allow me to adjust out all the backlash. The screw will be turned down and threaded to allow a nylock nut to tighten against the inner races of the bearings.

Eric

[ESjaavik]

@Balsaman: If you have another motor, mount the encoder using this method:

Smear the end of the motor shaft with grease to avoid chips getting into the bearing. Then mount the motor in your lathe so the body is held steady and the shaft is allowed to spin. Power up the motor and drill the hole in the end of the shaft using a drill mounted in the tailstock. Then scrape off the grease making sure to remove any swarf with it.

The reason for doing it this way is that if you take the armature out of the motor without pushing a thick-walled tube in behind it, the magnets will demagnetize. Not totally, but enough to seriously weaken the motor. How I know? I learnt this after i did it like you, and now I have one motor with full power and one wimp. Then I went searching for why, and found the reason as mentioned above. So the second motor was done as I suggested, and works fine.