[CarveOne]

Breaking a 1/4" router bit usually takes a lot of force, which can knock the Z assembly out of alignment depending on how rigid it was built. It may or may not bind, and it may just not be a true 90 degrees to the table top if you had it set that way before the cutter snapped.

I did that in the past and a few love taps with a dead blow hammer put it back into proper vertical alignment. I had no binding before or after the bit broke though. I tightened the bolts more to help keep them from shifting on impact.

CarveOne

[ger21]

Cut 2D is missing a lot of drawing tools that sure would be handy.. Like booleans.. a pen tool... the ability to select and move more than one node at a time..etc... so designing this vacuum attachment is taking a long time..

Cut2D is not intended for doing any designing in, hence the lack of tools. That's one reason why it's so much cheaper than V-Carve Pro.

Get yourself a free 2D CAD program to do your designing in, and you'll be lightyears ahead. A lot of people really like Draftsight

[Mountaincraft]

Cut2D is not intended for doing any designing in, hence the lack of tools. That's one reason why it's so much cheaper than V-Carve Pro.

Get yourself a free 2D CAD program to do your designing in, and you'll be lightyears ahead. A lot of people really like Draftsight

I've been meaning to try out designing in illustrator and exporting the files into Cut 2D.. And I also have a pretty powerful 3D app (Cinema 4D)..

They're both on my Mac Laptop... I could use a thumb drive to transfer them...

I'm unsure of how files translate.. especially in regards to 'size'...
Any experience with this?

I'll have to try out 'draftsight' too...

[louieatienza]

I've been meaning to try out designing in illustrator and exporting the files into Cut 2D.. And I also have a pretty powerful 3D app (Cinema 4D)..

They're both on my Mac Laptop... I could use a thumb drive to transfer them...

I'm unsure of how files translate.. especially in regards to 'size'...
Any experience with this?

I'll have to try out 'draftsight' too...

I've had no problems importing eps, ai, files into Cut2D. You probably won't be able to import Cinema4D unless you can export a 2D drawing to dxf.

Even the bargain bin version of TurboCAD would be a big help. But since you have Illiustrator you should be good. I have Adobe CS5 but haven't tried exporting from there yet, but I have CasMate Pro 6 and export from there to eps and into Cut2D.

[Mountaincraft]

But Cut 3D should accept my Cinema 4D DXF files, right?

Will V Carve Pro accept 3D dxf files?

BTW.. just finished cutting the front mount, and adding those little pockets worked great!

Thanks,
Mark

[ger21]

But Cut 3D should accept my Cinema 4D DXF files, right?

That depends on how Cinema 4D writes them. .dxf files can contain many different types of entities, and I'm not sure which ones Cut3D supports. I would think that you have some other format options in Cinema4D? There should be at least one that will work.
.3ds or .obj maybe?
I'm a Lightwave user, and have several format choices, but usually use an .stl export plugin.

Will V Carve Pro accept 3D dxf files?

No, 2D only. However, if you have both V Carve Pro and Cut3D, you can create toolpaths in Cut3D and import the toolpaths into V Carve Pro. This lets you use both 2D and 3D toolpaths on the same part.

[louieatienza]

But Cut 3D should accept my Cinema 4D DXF files, right?

Will V Carve Pro accept 3D dxf files?

BTW.. just finished cutting the front mount, and adding those little pockets worked great!

Thanks,
Mark

Yes, but now be careful... There is a caveat. If you're doing a 3D relief or 4-sided (like a small statue) or multi layer cutting, you should be fine. If you're making, for example, a spiral bevel gear or a complex mortorcycle bracket, then Cut3D could do it but not to the accuracy of a true 3D CAM package.

Also, VCarve Pro will not create 3D toolpaths, though 3D toolpaths created with Cut3D can be inported and inserted into VCarve Pro. I don't believe VCarve Pro will open 3D files, you need at least Cut3D or Aspire.

[Mountaincraft]

So when the time comes to add an indexer, I'll have to upgrade to something like Aspire or other 3D CAM package?

[louieatienza]

So when the time comes to add an indexer, I'll have to upgrade to something like Aspire or other 3D CAM package?

If I'm not mistaken, you can wrap a 2.5D path along the 4th axis with VCarve Pro. In Aspire, you can wrap a 3D path along the 4th axis. I think they both support indexing, but not sure.

[ger21]

Both V-Carve Pro and Aspire will wrap their "flat" toolpaths around cylinders.

With Aspire, though, even though you can import a cylindrical 3D object, you can only create toolpaths for 1 side of it. There are workarounds to do a lot of things, though, but I'm not too familiar with them.

If you really plan on doing rotary axis work, I'd highly recommend picking up the hobby version of DeskProto (Full version at hobby pricing), which is about the same price as Cut3D, and has a ton more features. It's for non commercial use, though.

[Mountaincraft]

BTW, since I reduced the acceleration, and got the new bosch bit, my edges are very crisp and clean (no caffeine) now...

So the two pieces for the vacuum mount that ride on the Y>Z carriage are done... Now I have to partially disassemble the Y and Z axis (good time to pull all the cables I will eventually need through the seal tite), tap some holes on the carriages... install the mounts (after I sand and seal or paint them), and start on the dust shoe itself..

Ordered a dust deputy, hose, clamps, and a fitting to attach to the shoe from WoodCraft today... So once I get all that and this dust under control, I'm off to start playing with some 'fun' projects...

I also have a bunch of cabinets for a customer waiting in the que too... It's gonna be nice to cut them with the machine as opposed to having to manually measure out and cut everything on the table saw, the router table, etc... Just create the file and copy paste as needed for each size...

[Mountaincraft]

This machine is awesome!
I am blessed to have it....
:wee::rainfro::banana:

Parts fit 'perfect'.. things come out 'square'
no slop...

[Mountaincraft]

So I just tried creating a little plaque in Illustrator (it's a real old version on an old OS on an old Laptop..LOL) and saving the file onto a USB flash drive.. plugged it into the PC and Cut 2D opened it up intact and I was able to create the tool paths...

So now that I can do some more complex things, I need to dig a little deeper into Cut 2D...

Cool!

[Mountaincraft]

So my bits and collet reducers from tools for today arrived a little while ago...

Man this 1/8" bit for the plastics looks 'so' fragile.. I'm gonna be terrified to use it!

What feed rate, plunge rate and pass depth should I use with this thing? I don't have an option of adjusting router speed at this point so that is what it is for an old PC920...

[louieatienza]

Plastic Router Bit by Amana Tool Router Bits

As you can see from the chart, Amana recommends almost 50ipm at 1xD, or 1/8" doc, and you slow down proportionally as the doc increases. I've cut lexan at 40ipm no problems with the 1/8" bit one pass, so I wouldn't be too worried. These bits are more durable than you think! I try to ramp in rather than plunge, usually at about 1/2 speed. But with your router running full gun, I probably would keep the feedraes up...

[Mountaincraft]

I try to ramp in rather than plunge, usually at about 1/2 speed. But with your router running full gun, I probably would keep the feedraes up...

What are appropriate settings for the ramping?

When using the ramping, if I cut in one pass, then the router will cut all the way back around to where the ramp finished it's full plunge (and not where it started it) correct?

[Mountaincraft]

So tools for today sends me some catalogs..
I put them in the throne room...

Yikes! Now I find myself lusting after bits!
I'm a sick man!....

It all started with the sears toy catalog as a kid...
Later it was the craftsman tool catalog..
The local music store..
Then Hot Rod Magazine...
The speed shop...
Then Guitar Center...

There's no hope for me I think.... LOL

[Mountaincraft]

These 'insert' bits from amana.. They look more robust than the regular bits..

Is this generally a better way to go than buying the one piece bits? Do these things wear longer, the same or worse than the regular bits?

Can the inserts be resharpened, or is that not worth the trouble? Are the inserts a pain to change, or not much of a hassle at all?

Amana has an 8 pc in groove sign making kit, (#AMS-209) that would essentially give me 8 different bits for 144 bucks... Kind of steep for an initial investment, but I'm wondering if it's not a lot cheaper in the long run...

There's a few local craft fairs coming up, and I'd like to get some stuff made and give it a go... get my feet wet.. But I don't really know what bits I should be looking at as a start up collection... I know I'd like to have a couple more up spiral bits.. those are the bomb for general cutting...

What are you guys getting the most use out of for general sign/craft making?

[Mountaincraft]

Also, on the page I linked, there are two video clips.. On the one on the left, they are suing the tool to do some very crisp and clean lettering...

What kind of cut is that? Would that be considered a 'pocket' cut.. or is there some other kind of process going on there? It's definitely not a profile or drilling operation.. At this point I'm only familiar with profile, pocket, and drilling toolpaths.. but that appears to be a pocket cut done with a v bit.. Is that what I'm seeing?

[ger21]

but that appears to be a pocket cut done with a v bit

Looks like a pocket to me, but it looks like more of a flat bottom beveled bit, and not really a V bit. You won't get a smooth bottom pocketing with a V bit.