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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Benchtop Machines > New mini-lathe is not running
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    266

    New mini-lathe is not running

    I bought a mini-lathe on ebay...
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

    I turn the speed control off, set the direction and then turn the speed control... nothing happens.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    887
    any lights come on? make sure that the E stop button is NOT pressed down.......

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1602
    If you have a plastic chuck guard make sure it is down. There is a safety switch built into it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    266
    Splash guard is down and the ES button is not pressed it still wont turn. I was hoping it would be something simple maybe its broken.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    266
    Still waiting for a reply back from the seller but considering my options...

    can spend $130 or more for the s/h (I think)
    can spend $150 for speed control from littlemachineshop.com

    If I choose to try and fix it myself I can first take it off the machine and check the motor and control board for an obvious problem like a broken connection.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    4553

    Post

    Smertrios,

    Reviewing the attached PDF may help diagnose the problem.

    Jeff...
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3655
    Have you checked the fuse?

    CR.
    http://crevicereamer.com
    Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    266
    The fuse is fine there is power to the control board because I Can hear the relays click when I press the emergency stop button and when I move the coolant shield.

    I have the control box off the machine ready to be shipped to the seller and with the motor leads not connected to anything I am tempted to test the motor with a 13 volt boat battery to eliminate the motor connections as the problem. Would that supply enough power to make it move at all?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    266
    Need help knowing what wires are for what... I assume the black and white wires are for the motor but maybe not. The area in the picture is the area directly behind where the control box was. When I apply 12v power to the black and white wires nothing happens *but* when I take the brush caps off and apply power directly to the brushes the lathe turns.

    EDIT: There are 2 sets of black and white wire pairs... the 2 large ones in the pic are the 110v power and the 2 small ones with the orange plug on the end go to the motor (doesn't show in pic). The other blue and brown wire are to the switch for the chucks shield.

    Determined the wiring outside the control box is not at fault so is it safe to assume the problem *is* the control box?... the seller has been communicating with me today says he has sold 20 the last couple months with no problems. Had to be me =>

    1 in 20 is not a very good average for a new lathes failure rate if that turns into a pattern =< In any case the seller is quite helpful and says he can get a replacement he just needs the defective part so the control box is going in the mail tomorrow.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00009.jpg  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1416
    "Had to be me"

    You and me both buddy. I can find the one bad copy of the most awesome device on the planet. I can also be assured that my problem will be like none that has ever been seen before.

  11. #11
    It's good that the seller is willing to replace it.
    For future reference, or now, here's the LMS Mini Lathe Drive Troubleshooting guide.
    http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Ref...leshooting.pdf
    There'd also a wiring diagram on page 37 of the Grizzly 7x12 manual which should be a twin to yours.
    http://cdn5.grizzly.com/manuals/g8688_m.pdf
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    55
    Yes, a 12v battery--or even a wall wart--should be enough to make the motor spin. I tested a mini-mill motor the same way.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by Smertrios View Post
    When I apply 12v power to the black and white wires nothing happens *but* when I take the brush caps off and apply power directly to the brushes the lathe turns.

    Determined the wiring outside the control box is not at fault so is it safe to assume the problem *is* the control box?
    So you're saying that you figured it out and that hooking a battery up to the wires to the motor does make it turn? If not, and you can only make it run by hooking up to the brushes themselves I would at least suspect something wrong with those connections. You can pull the motor and take the bell housing off the end to examine them. Basically the wires end up attached to some spring-like attachment that goes around the brush holders.

    You can also hook up a regular 110v light-bulb to the motor output wires from the control box. Turning the speed pot should make the bulb light up just like a dimmer switch would. If you have a multi-meter you can check the DC voltage as well as you turn the speed control.

    I'd do a few more tests before you box up and send off the wrong parts.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    724
    Quote Originally Posted by WaveDude View Post
    So you're saying that you figured it out and that hooking a battery up to the wires to the motor does make it turn? If not, and you can only make it run by hooking up to the brushes themselves I would at least suspect something wrong with those connections. You can pull the motor and take the bell housing off the end to examine them. Basically the wires end up attached to some spring-like attachment that goes around the brush holders.

    You can also hook up a regular 110v light-bulb to the motor output wires from the control box. Turning the speed pot should make the bulb light up just like a dimmer switch would. If you have a multi-meter you can check the DC voltage as well as you turn the speed control.

    I'd do a few more tests before you box up and send off the wrong parts.
    I agree checking the output of the speed control is not very difficult and will save you time in shipping if it is not the problem

    I have seen too many times electrical problems that are troubleshot to components rather than terminations, when all it was was a loose connection, brushes are notorious for hanging up, or not seating properly
    as well as all these machines come over on a slow boat from China and the temperature differences, and handling that they go through on that trip is probably enough to cause terminals to loosen
    ( not saying that is what your problem is) if you are not in a hurry for the machine to be working by all means send it off if they will warranty it, but If you need it now

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    266
    Broke my leg and got a replacement control box... they said my control box is working but sent me a different one back. Can't believe I didnt get it to work but I am assuming I was in the wrong as I can't be sure and thats just how I am (a target =>) =<

    Anyway I got the replacement fast but due to a broken leg I did not get out into the garage until this week to put it on... its working I can't be happier about that I was quite worried this whole time!

    I am going to contact the seller and let them know all is well and I need to replace the shipment costs I can't believe they didn't ask for it... Anyway now I need to buy some tooling and material so I can start removing the excess =>

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