The projects page has most of the important projects I've done listed.
The calibration one is here.
http://www.g0704.com/projects2.html#axis
Hoss
The projects page has most of the important projects I've done listed.
The calibration one is here.
http://www.g0704.com/projects2.html#axis
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
I was using the MAD for tool changes for some time but now my right arm has twice the muscle mass than my left as a result so I finally got around to implementing the LD power drawbar which works a treat. :cheers:
I have a couple of concerns about the quill lock. I found that if I set the PSI greater than 80 on my compressor, the quill gets pushed down no matter how tight I set the lock. Is there any other way to lock the quill in place more securely?
FYI - I'm using a 3" dia cylinder with 2" stroke only because its what I had on hand along with 3 pairs of stacked bellevilles ()()() set to 80 PSI max. I still get just enough force to release the tool, but I just don't trust the lock, esp given the fact it can drop 2" if it doesn't hold.
Second question I have is how did you remove the worm shaft from the front? I can't find any retainer rings holding it in place. The diagrams for my CT129N (BF20) doesn't show anything holding it in there either.
Leo
Hey Leo,
80 psi is only giving you about 550 lbs of force.
To be able to get more you can tap out the hole for the quill lock (I used 5/16-18)
and replace it with a bolt or socket screw, I can get it much tighter now.
If still no joy you could drill a shallow hole in the quill where the lock screw hits it
so it also acts to pin it.
The tip of the lock screw turned down below the minor diameter would prevent thread damage.
There is a pin on the right side of the head to remove so the worm will pull out the front.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
I feel really silly now. I saw what I thought was a PEM threaded insert. Didn't realize it was just a pin.
Thanks for the tip on the lock. Will do what you suggested.
So with only 550lbs being able to release the tool holder, that would mean my holding force is too low!
I used the A-7Q-9-32050 from SDP-SI which are rated at 340 lbs compressed. I just realized my mistake between series and parallel arrangement. I will try them in parallel.
Do you know how much force the stock bearings can handle?
Leo
Even the smaller upper tapered roller stock bearing has a static load of several thousand pounds.
Crank as much psi as you can into that 3 inch air cylinder, 125pi would give you close to 900lbs
which should give enough to open the collet with about 600-700 lbs pull for toolholding.
Still a small amount but good for light duty work.
If you come across a 4 inch cylinder sometime it would go with my floating power drawbar with no stress on the bearings.
http://www.g0704.com/projects2.html#pdb2
Plans are free for the asking at [email protected].
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Grizzly originally had May 18th for available date, upon placing my order they moved the date to April (Friday the) 13th. I have my DVD fom Hoss, now I need to make room in the shop. Can one of you guys measure from the back of the cabinet to the back of the table when it is all the way to the rear for me? Also how tall is the table top off the floor?
-Jon
Well hopefully friday the 13th will be good luck.
there's about 4 inches from the table to the rear and about 38 inches from the floor to the top of the table.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Thanks for the measurements Hoss. Looks like I should be able nestle it next to my Jet 9x20.
Do I get a merit badge for finally reading all 243 pages of this thread, or do I have to read the original one too?
-Jon
Ahh, you have to read them both and there's a pop quiz afterwards.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Would it be ill advised to put the x stepper on the left side of the machine like the optima conversion?
-Jon
Would it be ill advised to put the x stepper on the left side of the machine like the optima conversion? I am doing a phase 1 conversion.
-Jon
It's personal preference. There's no benefit for one or the other.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Here's a sneak peek at what I was working on yesterday on the mill, a new ally bed for my prusa printer to hold
a 10x10 pane of glass and an ally lower to give more y travel.
Nothing mounted yet, just laying there for a photo op.
Milled all the pieces from a 12x12 1/4" ally plate.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Hey Hoss,
Will you be gearing up to sell kits at some point? You have me mighty interested.
=
sorry wrong project
Hoss, be sure you suspend that heated bed over the ally, I read about a guy that said that the ally sucked all the heat away from the element.
I'm guessing you knew that...just in case.
The PCB is supported on the edges, hopefully enough heat transfers to the aluminum
to heat the 10x10 glass bed top edges too.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com