[hoss2006]

Hoss, isn't that Norditrac motor good for 2.5 + HP? Is it the controller the limiting factor. Sorry, I haven't messed with the DC controllers much.

Richard

It's continuous duty rating is 1.75 hp at 100 vdc, the 90 volts from the kbmm
gives 1.575 hp.
Hoss

[Bob Adams]

It's continuous duty rating is 1.75 hp at 100 vdc, the 90 volts from the kbmm
gives 1.575 hp.
Hoss

Hey Hoss,
can you put a encoder on that motor, to tap with?
Bob A
CNC Projects

[hoss2006]

I'd planned to integrate one with the pulley.
Hoss

[Bob Adams]

I'd planned to integrate one with the pulley.
Hoss

Are you thinking a double motor pulley, to a pulley on the encoder off to the side with a 1:1 ratio?

[hoss2006]

No I'm not. On the spindle pulley.
Hoss

[LUCKY13]

Would it help the house wiring if you set the controller to run on 220v?

Like Arizonavidio I find running new wiring helps mine out a ton. I even ran a extention cord out ot my shop building and ran a hugh amount of machines on it with no problems. But what I did was make a special plug for my extention cord and it had two 110v leads ( 10 wire) so that the cord supplied 220v to my shops breaker box. It was 100ft long and I ran a RF-45, big compressor plus many other machines on it with not even a change in the llighting when loads would get big. I even had a little compressor with one of these treadmill motors on it.


Going 220v on these controllers may help to feed them even though performance would probably not change much. It doesnt take much to run a 220v circuit and the amps get devided between lines. IDK maybe I just got lucky but it worked out very good for me. Its hard to run a 100ft extention cord and not have trouble with heat or to much load but with everything in my shop running full tilt it wouldnot even show any heat on the cord so I know it was handling the loads better than when it was 110v ( I would kick breakers all the time when it was 110v). I used it like this for two years so U know it held up. 220v with real wiring would be even better ( no extention cord).

Hoss that 704 is a real work horse. I am really impressed with this mill and what you are doing with it. I have to admite you have me wanting one. WIth the changes you have made I wander why any of us would need a RF-45, all though a RF-45 can do its own thing also when setup good. BTW when are you going to CNC your RF-45?


Jess

[hoss2006]

I'll say it one more time, these are EXTREME tests. I will not be pushing the motor to 100% capacity
on a day to day basis don't know who in their right mind would.
At a normal capacity like 25%-50% the house 110 will be fine.
I've been using the 1100 watt making parts with lights, pc, tv, shop vac and compressor
all at the same time no problem.
The major benefit of the kbmm-125 is that it runs off 110 and I don't have to deal with
getting 220 run to my spare room especially since 220 isn't going to gain me anything useful on this mill.
If someone has 220 already or doesn't mind running wires, more power to them.
They'll need a kbmm-225 though it's for 180 vdc motors.
Hoss

[mrcodewiz]

Yeah, the Nordic should be fine. I have mine running straight into an outlet which I believe is on a 20A breaker and have had no problems with it. I am pretty sure I even have some other things running on that same line.

[photomankc]

Yeah I would think a 110 20A circuit would be plenty of headroom and 15A sufficient. I'd just not want to be popping a breaker in the middle of something so 20A would mean lots of headroom with nearly anything else that would be on with it. With electric stuff I like to run at around 50%-60% capacity worst case from little electronics to big stuff. I don't let out much magic smoke when I follow that rule and its reasonable. (cost prohibits it sometimes).

He's definitely right though. If 1" deep cuts are your gig, this is sure an odd choice in machine to get there. Nice to know where your limits are though so you can keep inside them.

[Starleper1]

If your really indecisive you could get the KBMM-225D which can run either 120v or 240v.

[Connor]

Hoss,

I've finished making my stepper motor mounts, still in process of making the standoff's... I was looking at the Z-Axis shaft adapter and your using set screws to secure the adapter to the jam nuts... I noticed on my setup, that my jam nuts are not 90 degrees out.. the slots in the nuts are almost on top of each other.. probably less the 15 degrees out from each other. Did you do something to get them 90 degrees offset ? I also need to enlarge the clearance hole in my Z mount, because I used the one for the Phase 2 - Direct mount, but, do to the shaft adapter 1.25" isn't large enough. No biggie.

Thanks, Connor

[bogiestl]

Hoss, do you have any idea how much $$ you have in the conversion? I've tried to wade through the 160+ pages, but it gets a little difficult. The DVD is gonna be a must-have... Also, can you still use the thing manually at all? Be nice to have it available for drill-press type stuff, and would save floor space.

[Fastest1]

Drilling is easy with an MPG or just using the keyboard. That manual thing is overrated.

[bogiestl]

Drilling is easy with an MPG or just using the keyboard. That manual thing is overrated.

Well, I'm a little spoiled where I am right now... I just walk over to our Walker Turners, or if they're in use, there's Bridgeport and Jet manual mills... None of which require a computer to boot first...

And if I really feel like I must make a MAJOR hole, we've got a Leland Gifford, which also doesn't require software to load...

And if I need to throw something -through- the hole, there's the Cincinnati in the corner, giant belt-drive and all... I think I'm spoiled here... But when I set up my own shop, I'm going to be a little more crammed for space, and stuff is going to have to do multiple jobs if possible... and I'm thinking... "Hmm... Mill... Drill... That could be justified as a second CNC -and- something to make random holes and spin parts around with..."

(DO NOT EVEN CHANCE SPINNING SOMETHING WITH THE CINCINNATI. Since it can drill holes in small planets, that gets impressive really darn fast...)

[Fastest1]

I never turn the computer off.

[hoss2006]

Hoss,

I've finished making my stepper motor mounts, still in process of making the standoff's... I was looking at the Z-Axis shaft adapter and your using set screws to secure the adapter to the jam nuts... I noticed on my setup, that my jam nuts are not 90 degrees out.. the slots in the nuts are almost on top of each other.. probably less the 15 degrees out from each other. Did you do something to get them 90 degrees offset ? I also need to enlarge the clearance hole in my Z mount, because I used the one for the Phase 2 - Direct mount, but, do to the shaft adapter 1.25" isn't large enough. No biggie.

Thanks, Connor

Can't talk here on the zone about details of something I sell without incurring some wrath, please email me.
g0704.com
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Hoss, do you have any idea how much $$ you have in the conversion? I've tried to wade through the 160+ pages, but it gets a little difficult. The DVD is gonna be a must-have... Also, can you still use the thing manually at all? Be nice to have it available for drill-press type stuff, and would save floor space.

About $800 but I make most everything myself, except the motors and electronics.
The website has all the info including 25+ projects completed so far.
Projects2
Hoss

[Fastest1]

He also seems to update plans that were purchased earlier.

[photomankc]

Which is a real nice benefit to buying from him.

[robcap]

I agree. Thanks Hoss