[machinechick]

From my experience with wd-40 (which I buy by the gallon and use a compressed air "insecticide" sprayer, it rocks) it leaves behind mineral oil (the mysterious source of the water displacement?) which combines with the grease in lithium based formulas I have used on leadscrews and breaks the viscosity totally down after awhile, and doesn't stop breaking it down until everything is totally disassembled and cleaned with something else. The use of the above mentioned methanol afterwards would clear up the residue. Using a two part solvent formula is probably a safe bet, but I still miss that carbon tet, it was quick and I'm totally ADD'ed. Thanks steveg for providing me an alternative though!

[arizonavideo]

Just got mine and disasssembled, cleaned and took a good look and it is dead on. Must have been made on a tuesday! Not bad for the $$$ and fits the G0704 very nice.
ebay# 350276924621

That is strange.

I bought from the same person about 60 days ago from the same listing and my vise is a different casting and is painted gray. Mine had a bump one the front that yours does not have. I also don't have the 4 bolts on the top of the fixed jaw of the vise.

I was thinking of getting a second but I do want them to be the same height.

Can you measure the bed height?

Thanks
Dave

[hoss2006]

Just got mine and disasssembled, cleaned and took a good look and it is dead on. Must have been made on a tuesday! Not bad for the $$$ and fits the G0704 very nice.


ebay# 350276924621

Thats what I had my eye on from Discount Machine. Looks good.
I have my old 3 inch in use for the time being.
Thought I'd share a couple pics showing the same vise on the X2 and G0704.
Couldn't find one of it on the Freaks tooling plate though.
Hoss

[LeeWay]

That is the same vise I use, Hoss.
I like it, but wish the handle wasn't fixed like it is. I have to run it in by hand because it catches on my bellows. Nice little vise otherwise. It wasn't flat or square, but a new set of vise jaws remedied that.

[angelballer]

It seems like Shars/Discount Machine Shop started carrying the same vises Glacern has as they have the 4", 6", and 6" premium with the same specs and very close model numbers as Glacern in their ebay store. If you don't want a swivel base (which I assume is the case for a CNC mill), it is another option especially if you are wanted a matched pair later down the road. Whether they are exactly the same as Glacern or not I have no clue.

[Starleper1]

I noticed this too. They seem very similar. It makes you wonder if Glacern is really branded USA.

I can't find anywhere on their site that says the vises are made in the USA.

Doesn't really matter to me. Precision is precision, no matter the origin of manufacturing.

[angelballer]

Glacern doesn't deny that they have manufacturing partners around the world including Taiwan. Shars isn't selling them for their typical "Chinese" prices so I would assume these are manufactured in Taiwan as well and it could even be that they are rebadging them from Glacern themselves. It is impossible to say unless Sol or a Shars rep comes on here and clarifies but personally I don't care.

I do know that I, as well as everyone else I've seen post about their Glacern vises as well as their other products, am happy with my purchase so that's all that matters to me. Down the road I plan on purchasing another 6" premium from Glacern as I can get a matched one and if the quality is as good as this first one appears to be then I'll be more than happy.

[slatronic]

If you go through glacern's site they say that they have manufacturers around the globe. They say they have stuff cast over sees then ground, finish and fit in the states. I love my 6" and 4" standard vises and my 2.5" 45* face mill.

http://www.glacern.com/about_us

hoss,

i found this on the IH forum. it doesn't mention a specific grease but mentions do not use automotive grease. post#13

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100873

[Starleper1]

Missed that. Thanks

[hoss2006]

That is the same vise I use, Hoss.
I like it, but wish the handle wasn't fixed like it is. I have to run it in by hand because it catches on my bellows. Nice little vise otherwise. It wasn't flat or square, but a new set of vise jaws remedied that.

Yeah a swivel handle like on the bigger vises would be nice.
I remembered I did some modding to that vise to increase the throat opening.
Went from 2.5 to 3 inches I think.
Done plenty with that little bugger.
Hoss

[Teyber12]

lol i never thought of hossing a vice before!

[minug]

Got my mill cleaned, deburred and dialed in with the 5" Shars ebay vise. Nice fit!

Made a new strorm door support after mother mature ripped it off the hinges,

it's windy up here on the island! Mill cut very nicely, but I was only in

aluminum. gotta mill a new steel plate for a Ford flathead today, that will be the test.

I sure don't like the drawbar! We need a spindle lock, any ideas?

Thanks!

[LeeWay]

You might consider a butterfly impact wrench. I use one on my mill. No lock needed. I do have to make my own drawbars though. I use grade 5 all thread and some extension nuts. Then I drill and pin that nut in place. I use a couple belville washers under it. Works great for me. It lasts me about a year before I replace it. I use it a lot though.

[BobWarfield]

Leeway, if the requirement to replace the drawbar is because the impact wrench is chewing up the nut, try a hardened bolt instead. You can Mig it on to the end of the all thread and the HAE on the tip will be far enough that the bolt head stays hardened. Migs are handier than glue, LOL! It also helps to use a 12pt socket.

RE grease, bearings, and heat, some of you may have seen my spindle page:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCMillBeltDrive.html

The issue with the heat is usually less that it is hot, and more that it keeps getting hotter, at least where preload is concerned. Heat is generated beacuse the bearing is runnign tight. But, the heat expands the metal and makes it even tighter, which makes more heat, makes more expansion, until...

BOOM! She's a no go no more.

So, while you're poking and probing with your infrared thermometers, two things to look at. First, how hot is it really? A rule of thumb is to shoot for an operating temp of 100 to 140 degrees F. If you're hotter than that, you'll need to back off the preload.

Second, is the temperature stable? Let it run for up to 1 hour, and take frequent measurements. If it starts moving up above 140 after a little while, it will probably keep right on going. If it never gets any hotter, its probably fine.

On the grease, less is more--don't pack too full, 15-25% of a full pack is what I've heard from spindle rebuilders. Also, all greases are not created equal. The Kluber is the King of the Hill for spindle grease according to many. The reason is that "dN" number for that grease is very high (850,000 dN).

See the following from my spindle page:



dN tells you how fast you can spin the bearing. Note that the 850,000 of the Kluber grease is well outside the norm for many greases. BTW, you probably don't want to design you spindle to run at the absolute limit of the grease at all times either!

Also note that the "Oil" category on that chart means "oil mist". An awful lot of machine tool spindles these days work with an oil mist. I'd really love to try to build one. They are said to be very simple (this from a Haas VF-3):

"FWIW, when I overhauled my Haas spindle cartridge, which has oil mist, I was expecting some kind of high faluting thingy inside for the oil mist, but it is dead simple. Basically, the air/oil line feeds into a sintered bronze filter above the top bearing. That is it! No special passages, no nothing, just gravity Air comes out the bottom of the spindle around a close fitting labyrinth end cap. The oil volume required is very low."

Sorry, more than you wanted to know. I think I have a spindle fetish!

Cheers,

BW

[ihavenofish]

Leeway, if the requirement to replace the drawbar is because the impact wrench is chewing up the nut, try a hardened bolt instead. You can Mig it on to the end of the all thread and the HAE on the tip will be far enough that the bolt head stays hardened. Migs are handier than glue, LOL! It also helps to use a 12pt socket.

RE grease, bearings, and heat, some of you may have seen my spindle page:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCMillBeltDrive.html

The issue with the heat is usually less that it is hot, and more that it keeps getting hotter, at least where preload is concerned. Heat is generated beacuse the bearing is runnign tight. But, the heat expands the metal and makes it even tighter, which makes more heat, makes more expansion, until...

BOOM! She's a no go no more.

So, while you're poking and probing with your infrared thermometers, two things to look at. First, how hot is it really? A rule of thumb is to shoot for an operating temp of 100 to 140 degrees F. If you're hotter than that, you'll need to back off the preload.

Second, is the temperature stable? Let it run for up to 1 hour, and take frequent measurements. If it starts moving up above 140 after a little while, it will probably keep right on going. If it never gets any hotter, its probably fine.

On the grease, less is more--don't pack too full, 15-25% of a full pack is what I've heard from spindle rebuilders. Also, all greases are not created equal. The Kluber is the King of the Hill for spindle grease according to many. The reason is that "dN" number for that grease is very high (850,000 dN).

See the following from my spindle page:



dN tells you how fast you can spin the bearing. Note that the 850,000 of the Kluber grease is well outside the norm for many greases. BTW, you probably don't want to design you spindle to run at the absolute limit of the grease at all times either!

Also note that the "Oil" category on that chart means "oil mist". An awful lot of machine tool spindles these days work with an oil mist. I'd really love to try to build one. They are said to be very simple (this from a Haas VF-3):

"FWIW, when I overhauled my Haas spindle cartridge, which has oil mist, I was expecting some kind of high faluting thingy inside for the oil mist, but it is dead simple. Basically, the air/oil line feeds into a sintered bronze filter above the top bearing. That is it! No special passages, no nothing, just gravity Air comes out the bottom of the spindle around a close fitting labyrinth end cap. The oil volume required is very low."

Sorry, more than you wanted to know. I think I have a spindle fetish!

Cheers,

BW

great info, thank. i had been pondering oil misters as i intend to run 10k rpm on my wmd16v. (which is on a plane to canada right now, yay!)

[steveg]

Late 90's OKK's had a simple manifod with 4 2mm ID plastic lines leading
to each of the 4 AC spindle bearings. Air was introduced from one end of the manifold and oil from the other.
Each plastic line was about 20 FT long, coiled up and tied to the top of the spindle housing.
you could watch a drop of oil enter the line every 10 seconds or so and
see it turn from a drop to a film of oil that conformed to the ID
of the tube , by the time the oil made its way to the bearing there
was a very steady and uniform amount of oil applied

The oil used was waylube 32.

[LeeWay]

Leeway, if the requirement to replace the drawbar is because the impact wrench is chewing up the nut, try a hardened bolt instead. You can Mig it on to the end of the all thread and the HAE on the tip will be far enough that the bolt head stays hardened. Migs are handier than glue, LOL! It also helps to use a 12pt socket.


BW

It doesn't effect the hex part of the nuts. Just mushrooms the bottom. I sometime just grind it off flat with the hex again. Do this several times though and it gets used up on the head.

I could likely harden these nuts better than they are. I do have a stick welder and a wirefeed. I have them stored away right now and don't pull them out for small projects. That will change in the next few months though when I have my larger shop completed. They will always be at the ready then.
Making a new drawbar for the X2 head literally only takes 5 minutes. Well worth the time and effort saved by using the impact.
I will get a video showing a tool change soon and you can see what I mean.

[Starleper1]

Some of the commercial pneumatic draw bars have a brass/bronze washer between the draw bar and spindle.

That might help keep it from mushrooming

[hoss2006]

Have a couple videos, the first shows the G0704 Temp Test.
It ran for an hour and maxed out at 169 degrees and stayed
there for the last 40 minutes.
Thanks for all the advice on the greases and such, I'll put it to use for the AC bearings.
I can't think of taking the tapered up to 6000 rpm if they run this hot at 4500.
The 2nd shows the X2 temp test which you'll see why this temp isn't up to snuff.
Hoss

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XB7IPLeSkYA"]YouTube- G0704 Spindle Temp Test[/ame]



[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duYk_2ofQlE"]YouTube- X2 Bearing Temp[/ame]

[machinechick]

Just keep in mind that different bearings will have different temps (the tapered rollers are probably more "pre-load" sensitive than the balls on X2, no properly "pre loaded" tapered roller is going to be 66f at high speed for a prolonged time span), also again, with the BF series machines watch for the type of seal on the deep grove roller bearings holding the splined gear thats driving the spindle, if it's sealed, the friction generated comes into play and will heat up the whole spindle, for speeds higher than 4000 rpm you'd be better off with shielded. This factor will affect the overall temp no matter what spindle bearing you use.
Looking forward to how you get the AC's to perform.