[ihavenofish]

I would bet that if you took the radial load rating of a ball bearing, an angular contact bearing with the same size balls would support roughly that same load, but applied at the bearings angle. A little simple trigonometry will let you resolve that into radial and axial component forces. This would at least give you a very closer approximation.

Regards,
Ray L.

well, it isnt that simple i dont hink. cause a radial load is only loading 1/2 the balls at any given time with varying force. axial is loading all balls with the same force. it may be that an angular contact bearing can take more force axially than radially. if you look at a comparably sized thrust bearing, they take many times more force than the radial bearings.

i think we'll leave this one to "let hoss test it"

if it works with no issues for him, i think it would be fine. hes got a radial bearing in the x2 with a similar drawbar and that seems fine.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

The information is available on the SKF website:

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/p...newlink=1_3_13

For deep groove bearings, axial load rating is typically 50% of the radial load rating, and for angular contact, it will be higher.

Regards,
Ray L.

[hoss2006]

How do you think using the quill for your tool change will effect the repeatability.

Can't view youtube at work....

So I'm assming that you..

1. Unlock quill.
2. Move the quill down.
3. Flip up your MAD bar...
4. Retract the quill which compressess the bevel washers and drops the tool.
5. Move quill down and flip MAD out of the way.
6. Retract quill and lock the quill in place.

If this is the order of events, do you think that the tool offset will change much or do you expect the quill to return to the same location everytime.

Keep up the good work.

You got it right, just put in the next tool too.
I'll make a video soon showing how it can be used as a manual ATC.
Remove the rubber ring (#250) in the parts list.
The quill will stop nice and flush with the bottom of the head for a "home" position.
The DRO could also be used, I'll be using it for tool offsets as well.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Angular contact bearings support thrust loads or combinations of radial and thrust loading. They cannot accept radial loads only --a thrust load of sufficient magnitude must be present. An individual angular contact bearing can be thrust-loaded in only one direction; this load may be a working load or a preload.

- Barden Precision Ball Bearings

Seems to me that providing a static radial load rating for a bearing that can't accept radial loads on it's own would be pointless.
I would say again that the static load rating for AC's is axial just like tapered rollers.
Hoss

[serriadh]

That's an amazingly simple and effective toolchanger. It makes the solution at Usovo seem like massive overkill and expense by comparison.

It does surprise me that you can generate enough force to overcome the clamping pressure by hand. For some reason, I assumed that that amount of force was pretty significant... spring strengths measured in thousands of pounds, underengineered power drawbars bending under the force, etc etc.

[hoss2006]

No massive force here, just about 750 lbs, good enough for "light" duty work,
same as my X2 has been doing for the past 3 years.
http://www.hossmachine.info/FAQ.html question # 16.
I'll order some more bellevilles and try a 1500 lb test.
I don't have enough to stack them (())(()) to get twice the force and the same deflection to open the collet.
If I have enough a*s to do it, I'll probably snap one of the quill handles off.
We'll give it a go anyway.
Hoss

[BobWarfield]

No massive force here, just about 750 lbs, good enough for "light" duty work,
same as my X2 has been doing for the past 3 years.
http://www.hossmachine.info/FAQ.html question # 16.
I'll order some more bellevilles and try a 1500 lb test.
I don't have enough to stack them (())(()) to get twice the force and the same deflection to open the collet.
If I have enough a*s to do it, I'll probably snap one of the quill handles off.
We'll give it a go anyway.
Hoss

Think of the advantages your new big bicep "guns" will give you with the fairer sex!

BTW, if you want the "good" Kluber grease, you can get it directly from Kluber's online store:

https://www.klubershop.com/search.aspx

It's about $20 a tube, but you have to register (usual name and address questions). This is for Kluber Isoflex NBU-15, which is what you'll find on a lot of high end spindles. Why use it? Higher speed rating (850,000 dN) plus its formulated to shrug off way oil.

Probably extravagant unless you're going for that little extra bit of spindle speed. 8K rpm on one of these?

Cheers,

BW

[hoss2006]

Just ordered a tube of Isoflex NBU-15, $28.36 shipped. That's more than the bearings.
That'll end any questions of what the spindle can run at, should be the right stuff.
Get to take the spindle apart AGAIN.

MscDirect has a sale today and tomorrow on Hertel tooling, 45% off.
Picked up a few more 3/8 endmills, only $7 a piece.
See too many newbies buying the chinese junk and then complain about
crappy parts, crappy finishes and broken bits.
Wait for the good stuff to go on sale, they do a lot at MSC, and get some quality endmills, you'll be better off.
Sharp tools make milling fun not an ordeal like so many go thru.
Don't try to learn using junk, you won't know if the problems you are having
are your fault, the machines or in most cases, the shoddy bits.
Just and old farts advice.
Hoss

[steveg]

If you follow this link
http://www.nsk.com/products/spb/angu...ndex.html#tab4
and open the lubrication .pdf there is all kinds of good info on spindle bearing lubrication.
The table for grease quantity shows 7007=.98 cc of grease
7005= .52 cc
An infant liquid medicine syringe is a great dispenser/aplicator.
Pull out the plunger,squeeze a bunch of grease from the tube
into the syring, then inject the surplus back into the tube.
(no waste that stuff is expensive!)
Now you can dispense the grease evenly onto the inner and outer
races .

[machinechick]

Not to nag Hoss (guess the "guns" just aren't big enough yet to hypnotize me) but please clean all the old grease out properly with solvents that dont leave residue. If you spent money on good grease no use breaking it down to liquid mush with kerosene or mineral oil residues (wd40). I'd be nice to see what it all can really do.

[hoss2006]

If you follow this link
http://www.nsk.com/products/spb/angu...ndex.html#tab4
and open the lubrication .pdf there is all kinds of good info on spindle bearing lubrication.
The table for grease quantity shows 7007=.98 cc of grease
7005= .52 cc
An infant liquid medicine syringe is a great dispenser/aplicator.
Pull out the plunger,squeeze a bunch of grease from the tube
into the syring, then inject the surplus back into the tube.
(no waste that stuff is expensive!)
Now you can dispense the grease evenly onto the inner and outer
races .

Good idea, I have lots of syringes and needles.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Not to nag Hoss (guess the "guns" just aren't big enough yet to hypnotize me) but please clean all the old grease out properly with solvents that dont leave residue. If you spent money on good grease no use breaking it down to liquid mush with kerosene or mineral oil residues (wd40). I'd be nice to see what it all can really do.

Can do, what do you recommend? I have simple green.
Hoss

[ihavenofish]

*hides the wd40 can next to his new wmd16v*

[BobWarfield]

Good catch on that sale Hoss!

It's really a smokin' deal if you want a nice set of Hertel twist drills--about 1/2 price for USA made twist drills.

Trying to decide if I need a nice set of cobalts...

BW

[machinechick]

Can do, what do you recommend? I have simple green.
Hoss

I live by a "Mom and Pop" hardware store and they have Carbon Tetrachloride in old metal "Sunnyside Chemical" containers, guess it's been on the shelf since the 1970's. That is what I've been using. I love it, cleans great, evaporates quickly and completely so you can keep working. I never have never seen it anywhere else and think it's probably been long banned by the EPA!

In a previous post in this thread this subject was discussed and I believe Stereg suggested first degreasing with mineral spirits, then removing the mineral spirit residue with methanol, sounds good to me, and they sell that stuff everywhere they sell paint.

[gd.marsh]

Didn't someone previously mention brake cleaner to clean up the mineral spirits? That would be easy to come by ..

gd.marsh

[BobWarfield]

FWIW, these guys suggest filtered gasoline to clean precision spindle bearings before grease packing:

http://www.gmnbt.com/spindlebearings_installation.htm

Don't burn yourself up!

Of course, since you have the Kluber uber-grease, you may want the Kluber uber-cleaning-procedure:

http://www.klueber.com/PDF_Dokumente...EANING_ENG.pdf

Brake Cleaner is on that list:

http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Portals/0/1420.pdf

Cheers,

BW

[arizonavideo]

The generic carb(not B12 cemtool) cleaner is a better solvent most have zyline and Triple T. I have use it for may years to remove tar spot when carpet cleaning. The break cleaner is not strong enough to remove gar gum or tar.

[hoss2006]

Lots of good advise, thanks gang.
I'll see what I have, might already have spirits, carb and brake cleaners.
Hoss

[raymondg]

... MscDirect has a sale today and tomorrow on Hertel tooling, 45% off.
Picked up a few more 3/8 endmills, only $7 a piece.
See too many newbies buying the chinese junk and then complain about
crappy parts, crappy finishes and broken bits.
Wait for the good stuff to go on sale, they do a lot at MSC, and get some quality endmills, you'll be better off.
Sharp tools make milling fun not an ordeal like so many go thru.
Don't try to learn using junk, you won't know if the problems you are having
are your fault, the machines or in most cases, the shoddy bits.
Just and old farts advice.
Hoss

Hoss,
Thanks for the heads up on that. I was overdue for getting a good selection of endmills to have on hand for all the projects. Now I am well stocked, and my wallet isn't nearly as light as it would have been.

Regards,
Raymond